Recipes fromPayard Desserts
- Poached Seckel Pear with Pomegranate, Cabrales Cheese, and Szechuan Pepper Ice Cream
- 蛋奶酥Orange-Scented糕点的松饼Cream, Candied Pecans, and Caramel Butter Sauce
With stints atLe BernardinandRestaurant Danielon his resume, honors that include the 1995 James Beard Award for Pastry Chef of the Year, and a collection of eponymouspatisseries and bakeriesin New York, Las Vegas, Japan, and Korea, François Payard is one of the greatest living examples of the master pastry chef. His latest venture is his fourth cookbook,Payard Desserts.An homage to plated desserts—those elegant, complex creations served in the finest restaurants—the fall 2013 release features nearly 100 of Payard's recipes from throughout his career.
Payard Desserts,explains the chef, "is targeted toward professionals, semi-professionals, culinary students, and advanced pastry cooks." Each recipe involves multiple components, and you will "need access to a variety of tools and ingredients," Payard acknowledges. While not everyone will bake their way through this beautifully photographed book, anyone with an interest in traditional French pastry or who likes to bake or eat sweets will be inspired by this culinary legend's recipes and expertise.
We spoke with Payard about the book and his career, as well as the ingredients that intrigue him, his view of molecular gastronomy, and where he stands on New York's 2013 pastry obsession, theCronut.Read on for Payard's insights, plus two recipes fromPayard Desserts:蛋奶酥Orange-Scented糕点的松饼Cream, Candied Pecans, and Caramel Butter Sauce;andPoached Seckel Pear with Pomegranate, Cabrales Cheese, and Szechuan Pepper Ice Cream.
Epicurious:You come from a long line of celebratedchefs pâtissiersin southern France. What is it like being a third-generation pastry chef?
François Payard:It's all about dedication to make the best that I can. I'm lucky that I have had the opportunity to learn from my grandfather and father, and I still talk to my dad about recipes and ideas today.
Epi:Do you think being a great pastry chef is a natural talent, or is it something anyone can learn?
FP:I think it's something that can be learned, but there's got to be some natural talent. You have to have passion, dedication, and work hard. You have to enjoy what you do every day.
Epi:At nearly 400 pages, your new book covers everything from custards and mousses to tarts to frozen desserts. What was the inspiration behind the chapter devoted to savory desserts such as the Black Olive Macaron with Gorgonzola Ice Cream and the Plum Tomato Napoleon?
FP:I wanted to show the versatility of ingredients and flavors. I think it's important to remind people that the cheese course can be a dessert course.
Epi:How have your desserts evolved over the years, and which chefs have had the most influence on you?
FP:My desserts have definitely evolved over the years and continue to do so. Sometimes I look back at pictures and can't believe some of the desserts I did. It's an industry that is constantly changing, so I'm always looking at how I can be better.
Alain Senderens has had such an influence on me because he's the only chef that made me work six months before I could put a dessert on the menu. He was so complicated and I worked so hard, but it took me six months to understand what he wanted.
Epi:In a restaurant, how important is the relationship between the chef and the pastry chef?
FP:The relationship between everyone in the kitchen is important, especially between the chef and pastry chef. Communication is extremely important. All of the dishes should complement one another and make sense together.
Epi:Of all the French pastries, which is your favorite to make?
FP:I love making classic, rustic fruit tarts. My favorite is making puff pastry with peaches or apricots. It's something so simple and classic, yet so perfect.
Epi:What trends are you seeing in pastry today, and which are you most excited by?
FP:I'm seeing a lot of pastry chefs going back to the classics and creating traditional French pastries, and then updating them in new and exciting ways. More and more people are revisiting the classics.
Epi:How do you feel about molecular gastronomy and how it's changed desserts in recent years?
FP:I think molecular gastronomy has changed dessert by expanding the different ways one can use and portray ingredients. Personally, it's not something that I like to do, but I think it's great to learn about.
Epi:What do you think of the pastry that has taken New York City by storm, the Cronut?
FP:I think Dominique [Ansel] came up with the best idea of the year. They've done incredible marketing, knowing that Americans love doughnuts, and added a French twist. I think it was a great idea, and I'm happy for him.
Epi:What new ingredient or ingredients are inspiring you right now?
FP:I love to find new ingredients when I travel, and exchange ideas with other chefs. I've been really inspired by this company in France calledBaume Des Anges创建冷榨油品herbs. The flavors are so clean and pure. I love how they add another layer of flavor, and help to bring out certain tastes.
Epi:It's often said that for baking, American ingredients will never deliver in quite the same way as their French counterparts—do you agree?
FP:Yes, they are different but you have to work with what you have available. If you look at the market, there are some ingredients that are just as good as the ones made in France. Sometimes it matters, and sometimes it doesn't. You need to know when it's worth splurging on the more expensive product. I always try to get the best ingredients that I can because that's what it really is all about—quality.
