Anne Stiles Quatrano

This recipe is a wonderful way to celebrate the spoils of the Southern hunt, though it is just as delicious when made with farm-raised quail. If quail livers aren't included with the quail, chicken livers would be a good substitute. The size of a quail makes each bird a perfect individual portion for a dinner party. To make the stuffing, we've used another reward of the "hunt": wild mushrooms. When we forage in the woods near Summerland Farm, the mushrooms we most often find are chanterelles and hen-of-the-woods, especially prolific during a moist season. If you are foraging, be absolutely sure you know what you are looking for, as poisonous varieties can sometimes look dangerously similar to edible ones. To be on the safe side, visit a gourmet market or natural foods grocery store for a nice choice of mushrooms. We serve the quail on a bed ofWilted Autumn Greens.

This is a perfect autumn salad: not so much cooked as wilted greens in a warm, savory-sweet vinaigrette. Here in the South, we are lucky to have so many different greens that grow remarkably well virtually all year round. From the traditional collards, spinach, mustard, and turnip greens to the international varieties that have recently made their way here, including bok choy, tatsoi, and komatsuna, there are a variety of tastes and textures to choose from. No matter where you live, experiment with seasonal greens until you find your favorites. If you're shopping at the farmers' market, most of the vendors will be happy to let you have a few nibbles for taste-testing. The same goes for the squash—you can use butternut, acorn, pumpkin, African, or any similar variety. At Summerland Farm, we are lucky to have American chestnut trees planted by my ancestors, and even luckier that those trees survived the chestnut blight that killed most American chestnuts in the first half of the twentieth century. Fresh chestnuts—often grown in California—are available in many natural foods stores in the cooler months. If you can't find chestnuts, hazelnuts or cashews would make a good substitute.