Alfred Portale

At the Citymeals-on-Wheels event, our food editors were astonished by the variety of flavors layered in these summer rolls. Within the confines of each wrapper, chef Alfred Portale combined sweet crabmeat, crunchytobiko(flying-fish roe), and creamy avocado, then finished it with a citrusyyuzusauce.

Rich, smooth, decadent, and stunning: There's a reason why food this luscious persists more than two decades later.

This delicious last course is a little sweet and a little savory—like dessert and a cheese plate in one dish. If you can't find fresh figs, buy dried black Mission figs, soak them in warm water until very soft, then drain and pat dry.

Use roasted garlic to makefresh spinach and roasted-garlic custards. Any leftover roasted garlic will keep in the fridge for up to four days. It's a great addition to mashed potatoes, soups, and salad dressings.

Now that imported caviar is no longer available, the domestic stuff is all the rage. Paired with lemon oil (sold at many markets), it's the ultimate garnish.

I grew up in a household where we didn't eat meat on Friday, which presented a problem because when I was a child, I didn't like most fish or shellfish. My mother solved this dilemma by making me pasta with canned tuna and tomato sauce. This is my adult version of that recipe, made with high-quality preserved tuna with capers and anchovies added to hit the notes one expects in such a classic seafood pasta.

This recipe offers a prime example of cooking à la minute because the entire dish can be prepared and executed very quickly. (It also uses few enough ingredients that you could purchase all of them in the express lane of your local supermarket on the way home from work.) After sautéeing the halibut, the fish is removed from the pan, which is then deglazed with white wine and fresh lemon juice. Butter is swirled in gradually to yield a rich, flavorful sauce — punctuated by scallions, capers, and diced tomato — that is simply poured over the fish; its pleasing citric acidity and buttery richness make it a perfect foil for the halibut.

Portobellos make this simple dish shine. It's from Alfred Portale's 12 Seasons Cookbook written with Andrew Friedman (Broadway Books). Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 45 min