There is something so simple and satisfying about a marble cake. No wonder it's a favorite in Jewish kitchens. Moister than a pound cake, richer than a quick bread, this is the perfect sweet to have around over the weekend. For a vanilla marble cake, substitute a cup of water for the orange juice and omit the orange zest.
This makes a rich but surprisingly light, torte. An absolute, worth-the-price-of-the-book winner. Mashed sweet potatoes make a great substitute for the traditional pureed chestnut paste. Chestnut puree is available kosher, but I have never been able to find it "kosher for Passover." It may seem unusual, but I can assure you of two things — it tastes divine and it is easier than buying fresh-in-the-shell chestnuts, roasting, poaching, and grating them to get them ready for this cake. You can also serve this in squares, as French-style "petit fours." The glaze slicks this up but is not necessary—a dusting of cocoa is just fine.
The Middle Eastern tone is part of this cake's appeal. A very nutty cake is suffused with a honey-citrus soaking syrup, much like baklava in concept but flour-free, making it suitable for Passover. A little goes a long way. For large Seder crowds, you can double the recipe and bake it in a 9-inch springform pan or a 9 by 13-inch rectangular pan. I serve this cake cut into small squares or diamonds placed in small muffin liner cups. Copeland Marks, in his bookSephardic Cooking,attributes this to Turkish cuisine. Joan Nathan calls it "Tishpishiti" in her book,Jewish Cooking in Americaand points to Syrian, as well as Turkish roots as does Claudia Roden in her book,Mediterranean Cookery. A nutty classic indeed! My version is inspired by a recipe simply called "Nut Cake," found inFrom My Grandmother's Kitchen, by Viviane Alcheck Miner with Linda Krinn. If you are interested in Sephardic recipes along with a very engaging family history, this book is a real find.
