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Mashed Potatoes with Olive Oil and Parsley

This Tunisian way with potatoes is as good hot as it is cold. Sweet potatoes can be used in the same way. Although in the Arab world potatoes never had the importance they acquired in Europe, and they never replaced grain, they are treated in a most delicious way. You must try the variations belonging to various countries which follow. Serve hot or cold with grilled or roasted meats and chicken. Some can also be served cold as appetizers.

Ingredients

serves 6

1 1/2 pounds mealy potatoes
Salt and pepper
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
  1. Step 1

    Peel and boil the potatoes in salted water until soft. Drain, keeping about 1/2 cup of the cooking water.

    Step 2

    Mash the potatoes and beat in the olive oil. Add salt and pepper to taste and enough of the cooking water to have a soft, slightly moist texture. Then stir in the parsley.

  2. Variations:

    Step 3

    Fold in 3 tablespoons capers, soaked in water then drained and squeezed, or 5 chopped scallions.

    Step 4

    Fold in some chopped black or green olives—about 12.

    Step 5

    Add 1/4–1/2 teaspoon turmeric to the cooking water, or 1/2 teaspoon harissa (page 464) at the end.

    Step 6

    Add 1/2 teaspoon cumin, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, and the juice of 1/2 lemon or the chopped peel of 1/2 preserved lemon (page 459).

    Step 7

    With sweet potatoes, add 1 teaspoon ground ginger to the cooking water,then pinches of powdered saffron,cumin, and chili when you mash the potatoes. Use chopped cilantro instead of parsley,and if you like add 1/2 preserved lemon peel,chopped.

    Step 8

    A spiced baked-potato puree comes from Algeria: Peel, boil, and mash 2 pounds of potatoes, then mix with 3 large eggs. Season with salt and pepper, 2 teaspoons cumin, 1 tablespoon paprika, and, if you like, 1/2 teaspoon chili pepper, and stir in 1/2–3/4 cup chopped parsley or cilantro. Pour into a baking dish and bake at 400°F for 25 minutes.

The New Book of Middle Eastern FoodCopyright © 2000 Knopf
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