Late summer is go time for sweet corn—the time to drop all other existing business and commit oneself fully to the task ofshucking, boiling, and slathering(with butter, or mayo, hot sauce...) as many ears of corn as possible. It is a time for eating recklessly, and worrying about flossing later. But as sublime as fresh sweet corn eaten off the cob is, itbarely scratches the surfaceof corn's versatility. Perhaps that's why more and more chefs around the country are seeking out innovative ways to incorporate America's most iconic summer crop into their sweet and savory menus.
Some of these dishes, like Daniel Patterson's popcorn grits, which transform fluffy popcorn kernels into a buttery porridge, and Christina Tosi's cornflake-based cereal milk ice cream, have already become the stuff of legend. But they are hardly the only examples.
Combine sweet and savory varieties
At newly openedRoot & Bone, chefs Jeff McInnis and Janine Booth debuted a corn-centric dish this summer that pairs grilled sweet corn with flash-fried hominy (dried starchy corn kernels that have been soaked in lye), popcorn, and silky cornbread butter—ground up cornbread that is simmered with heavy cream, sugar, and butter. "We loveshowcasing the whole cornand husk alongside corn in its different forms," McInnis said.
Use corn to add creaminess
Across the country in San Francisco, Commonwealth chef Jason Fox garnishes a dish of scallops and hearts of palm with a butter and cream-enriched popcorn puree. "I look forward to corn season because it issuch a versatile ingredient," he said. "In this dish the puree adds sweetness, fat, and a luxurious mouth feel." And in Louisville, Kentucky, chef Annie Pettry atDeccamakes a corn risotto that uses the entire ear. "We soften the risotto with homemade corn stock, stir in corn cream made from the cobs, and add charred corn kernels for garnish," she said.
Bring the vegetable into dessert territory
On the sweet end of the spectrum, ice cream companies likeCoolhausin California, with its seasonal blueberry corn ice cream, andSalt and Strawin Portland, Oregon, which included a sweet corn buttermilk sherbet among this summer's flavor options, have found ways toshow off the sweet side of corn.
And the folks at Wylie Dufresne's restaurant,Alderin New York City offer a dessert inspired by strawberry shortcake that pairs fresh and macerated berries with Chartreuse, whipped cream and toasted hunks of freeze dried cornbread. "I replace half of the cornmeal with freeze-dried corn, which gives it a rich corn flavor," said chef Jon Bignelli. While it sounds exotic, Bignelli assures us that freeze-dried corn is available at many health food stores.
Most importantly, say the chefs, don't wait to experiment with corn in all its forms. "When corn is ripe and delicious, it adds an earthy sweetness unlike any other ingredient," said Bignelli. "Unfortunately it has a short season, so you gotta get when you can!"
Want to expand your own corn repertoire? Here's how:
- Garnish creamy soups withspiced popcornfor added crunch
- Add grilled corn kernels tocreamy gritsorrisottofor another layer of depth
- Swap out half the cornmeal in acornbread recipefor freeze-dried corn (we love Cope's Dried Sweet Corn, $10 atzingermans.com)
- Stir corn kernels into savorywaffle batterand topping the stack with smoked salmon and buttermilk whipped cream
- Juice corn and blend the sweet, milky juice with vinegar and oilto make a dressingthat perfectly offsets bitter salad greens
