The last days of October are filled with the aromas of marigolds, copal (incense), toasted canela, orange blossoms, aniseed, mole, tortillas, and wood. Many people are busy preparing for the Día de los Muertos celebrations that take place during the first days of November (the main festivity is on the 2nd). The celebration dates back to the Aztec times, when it was believed that the deceased embark on a journey, eventually leading them to the Mictlan, the highest level of the underworld, where they would finally rest in peace. People gather in cemeteries and bring the deceased’s favorite foods and music. It is a way to celebrate the time we had with our loved ones and keep their memory alive. The cemeteries are filled with laughter, mariachis, food, lights, and flowers, and it is a celebration of life. There are many different breads made for this celebration. In Michoacán, they are sculpted into shapes of flowers, the Virgin Mary, skulls, and animals. In Oaxaca, you will find round breads topped with sesame seeds and colorful heads coming out of them. In the center of Mexico, the dough is made with pulque (a fermented beverage made from the maguey plant) instead of yeast, giving it a very distinctive, somewhat herbal, acidic flavor. Many places dust the tops with pink sugar to remind us of the ceremonial use of bread. The varieties are too many to count, but this one is perhaps the most well known. This recipe is adapted from Maricu, a chef from Mexico City who owns a cooking school of the same name. Even though you may not celebrate Día de los Muertos, I encourage you to make this delicious bread decorated with “bones” and take a moment to remember those who are no longer with you in this life.
Ingredients
makes 2, each serves 6 to 8
Dough
Topping
Step 1
TO MAKE THE DOUGH, dissolve the yeast in the orange blossom water. Add 1/3 cup of the milk and 1/2 cup of the flour. Mix well with a whisk (the dough should be sticky and smooth) and leave in a warm place (about 70°F) until it begins to bubble and puffs up slightly, 20 to 30 minutes.
Step 2
Put the remaining 3 1/2 cups flour in the bowl of a mixer with the hook attachment and mix in the sugar, salt, and orange zest for about 30 seconds. Add the eggs, the remaining 1/3 cup milk, and the yeast dough. Mix at low speed until the dough starts to come together. Add the butter gradually, in small pieces, while continuing to mix, and increase the speed to medium. The dough will look sticky, but resist the temptation to add more flour. Continue beating for 10 to 15 minutes, until the dough is soft and comes off the sides of the bowl. If the dough is still sticky after 15 minutes of beating, you may now add a little flour, if needed (no more than 1/3 cup).
Step 3
Lightly grease a large bowl with oil or butter and place the dough inside. Cover with a towel and let rise in a warm place (about 70°F) until doubled in size, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Punch down the dough, gather the sides together, flip over so that the bottom is now the top, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight (chilling it will slow the fermentation process and make it easier to shape). Remove the dough from the refrigerator, uncover, and place a towel on top. Leave the dough to rise in a warm place (about 70°F) to come to room temperature, about 1 hour.
Step 4
Cut off (don’t pull) a piece of dough about the size of a large lime and reserve to make the “bones.” Divide the remaining dough in half and form into 2 rounds, shaping them on a smooth surface and making sure the dough is compact. Place on 2 baking sheets lined with parchment paper or silicone baking mats. Lightly flatten the tops of the dough rounds with the palm of your hand.
Step 5
Form some of the reserved dough into 2 gumball-size balls and leave on the baking sheet for later use. Divide the remaining dough into 4 pieces. Roll out with your hands from the center out, making strips that are about 1 inch longer than the width of the rounds. Spread your fingers and press lightly, making knobs that resemble bones. Place 2 strips on top of each bread round, crossing the strips over each other. Cover lightly with a cloth. Let rise in a warm place (about 70°F) until doubled in size, about 1 1/2 hours. To tell whether the dough has doubled, press lightly with your fi nger. It should slowly spring all the way back.
Step 6
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Step 7
Place the small reserved balls in the center of the bread rounds, where the strips meet, using a little water to make them stick. Bake until the dough has an even, dark golden color, 20 to 30 minutes, then cover loosely with foil and bake until the internal temperature is 190°F or the bottom of the bread is browned, 10 to 15 minutes longer. Remove from the oven and allow to cool for a few minutes on a wire rack.
Step 8
TO MAKE THE TOPPING, melt the butter and brush on the breads, being sure to brush all around the knobs and over every inch. Hold each bread by the bottom (if it’s too warm, use gloves or a piece of cardboard to hold it) and sprinkle evenly with sugar all over the top.
VARIATION: ANISEED
Step 9
Substitute 1 1/2 teaspoons aniseed for the orange zest and 2 tablespoons whole milk for the orange blossom water.
VARIATION: CINNAMON
Step 10
Substitute 1 tablespoon coarsely ground toasted canela for the orange zest and 2 tablespoons whole milk for the orange blossom water. Sprinkle the bread with confectioner’s sugar instead of granulated sugar.
VARIATION: SESAME SEED
Step 11
For a more savory bread, brush the tops with egg yolk and sprinkle with about 1/2 cup sesame seeds before baking (no butter or sugar is used at the end).
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