Elizabeth Andoh

Haiga mai has become a middle-of-the-road alternative for many health-conscious Japanese households. The appearance and taste is close to that of fully polished rice, but haiga, the nutrient-rich germ, is left intact (though the hull has been removed).

Many of the items served to celebrate New Year's in Japan have symbolic meaning, expressed as wordplay. Sweet black beans are a good example: the wordkuromeans "black," but the meaning shifts to "hard work" when the calligraphy changes and the final vowel is extended. Similarly, the wordmamémeans "bean," but written with different caligraphy,mamébecomes "sincere" or "earnest." Eating black beans in syrup on New Year's ensure that those who work in earnest will have a sweet new year.
The traditional method of preparingkuro maméis a long (3 days from start to finish) and rather tedious procedure, though one that results in utterly delicious plump, glossy, tender beans in a light sugar syrup that can be kept for months. Over the years, observing many Japanese home and professional cooks and experimenting in my own kitchen, I have developed a modified version of the classic technique that I am sharing here.
The key to preparing luscious, wrinkle-free sweet black soybeans is patience: the beans must be completely tender before sweetening them (adding the sugar too early will cause the beans to sieze and toughen), and the pot must be frequently watched, adding more water as needed to keep the beans barely submerged through the lengthy cooking process so they don't wrinkle.

This moist and fluffy steamed green tea confection has a texture similar to that of chiffon cake. My favorite version includes sweet-simmered black beans randomly scattered throughout the batter. A dried fruit-studdedkinako(toasted soy flour) version (see below) is also popular.
与许多日本专的糖果d from European cuisines, the traditional recipe calls for eggs and cow's milk. I offer a vegan version using soy milk. The richer the soy milk is (higher percentage of soy solids), the better the texture will be.

Daigaku Imo Hanamaru Market, a highly successful, long-running Japanese television talk show, opens with a short cooking segment every weekday morning. Finding ways to make impressive classic cuisine simpler and less technically demanding is the theme of many of the episodes. In the autumn of 2008, one of the broadcasts featured an innovative recipe fordaigaku imo(candied sweet potatoes) that topped all previous viewer-rating charts. Indeed, as of this writing, nearly a year later, it remains the all-time favorite. Syrup-glazed, black sesame-studded sweet potato first became a popular snack among university students at the turn of the twentieth century. Indeed, that is the origin of the name of the dish:daigakumeans "university" andimois "potato." Most recipes fordaigaku imoinstruct the cook to deep-fry sweet potato chunks first and glaze them afterward. Although delicious, the classic version results in a high-calorie snack that is messy both to make and to clean up. In contrast, theHanamaru Marketversion offers a (relatively) healthy snack.

All sorts of neglected or leftover vegetable bits can be transformed into these lovely, lacy-crisp, colorful tempura pancakes.

Shojin Chawan MushiThe classic version ofchawan mushi, often part of a formal banquet menu, is made with eggs and fish-based dashi. But lightly seasoned soy milk can be transformed into a custardlike consistency reminiscent of the classic by adding the coagulantnigari, in a process similar to the making of tofu. I have filled my veganchawan mushiwith seasonal tidbits: wild mushrooms in the fall and asparagus tips and fresh bamboo shoots in the spring. The custard must be served in the same heatproof container in which it is steamed. The Japanese use specialchawan mushicups with lids that are placed on top only after steaming. Ramekins, custard cups, or teacups without handles can be used in their place.

A sweet-and-salty miso glaze turns tofu into little bites of comfort food, traditionally served on skewers.

Teriyaki baaga

_(Tamago Toji Udon)Editor's note:This recipe was adapted by Japanese cooking expert Elizabeth Andoh. Andoh also shared some helpful tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.

_Editor's note:This recipe was adapted by Japanese cooking expert Elizabeth Andoh. This recipe originally accompaniedThick White Noodles in Soup, Topped with Eggs and ScallionsandCold Noodle Salad with Ponzu Sauce._ If instructions are provided on the package you purchase, follow the guidelines printed there. If no guidelines are available, refer to the basic procedures described here.

_(Iriko Dashi)Editor's note:The recipe and introductory text below are adapted from Elizabeth Andoh's book_Washoku: Recipes from the Japanese Home Kitchen. _Andoh also shared some helpful tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page. This recipe originally accompaniedThick White Noodles in Soup, Topped with Eggs and ScallionsandCold Noodle Salad with Ponzu Sauce._ In the Sanuki region of Shikoku Island, noodle soup stock is typically made from dried sardines callediriko,in combination with dried kelp (kombu), and dried black mushrooms (hoshishiitake). Some Sanuki stocks are enriched with bonito flakes (katsuobushi) and if you prefer a smoky flavor to your broth, I suggest you add these flakes, too. All the dried foodstuffs used to make stocks are rich in naturally occurring glutamates and provide intense flavor to the soup.

_(Hiyashi Udon)Editor's note:The recipe and introductory text below are adapted from Elizabeth Andoh's book_ An American Taste of Japan.Andoh also shared some helpful tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page.

_(Te Uchi Udon)Editor's note:The recipe and introductory text below are adapted from Elizabeth Andoh's book_ At Home with Japanese Cooking. _Andoh also shared some helpful tips exclusively with Epicurious, which we've added at the bottom of the page. This recipe originally accompaniedThick White Noodles in Soup, Topped with Eggs and ScallionsandCold Noodle Salad with Ponzu Sauce._

Tori SoboroThis gingery soy-simmered chicken is a popular topping for rice and stuffing foromusubi.Less soupy than a Sloppy Joe, the texture is similar to a dry curry or stiff chili con carne. It freezes well, so do not hesitate to double the recipe.

Yuuan YakiThe meaty flavor of oily fish such as Spanish mackerel, pompano, or swordfish stands up nicely to this marinade. If you prefer milder-flavored fish, try cod or bass.

Horenso No Goma Miso AeSome miso varieties are quite salty, but the Saikyoshiromiso called for in this sauce has a sweet, caramel-like taste.