The distinct fragrance of sach ko ang (សាច់គោអាំង) fills the air at most street food markets and community gatherings in Cambodia. I learned to recognize the smell of these sizzling barbecued beef skewers, a traditional Khmer food, during a visit to Cambodia more than a decade ago (sach ko translates to “beef” and ang to “barbecue”). It became a mission to seek it out wherever I traveled there, sampling its many variations in a country not widely recognized for its incredible cuisine.
At the heart of the dish is kroeung (គ្រឿង), one of five signature spice pastes used in Khmer cookery. Galangal, lemongrass, and makrut lime leaves form the aromatic flavor base of each kroeung, which branches into different styles depending on what else is added. Sach ko ang uses yellow kroeung, owed to the fresh turmeric that gives it its golden hue.
You’ll most commonly find sach ko ang at bustling street food stalls where vendors grill them upon clay braziers (charcoal burners). Passersby can purchase a single skewer or two to be eaten on the go as an afternoon snack, but at lunchtime they’re eaten as a complete meal with a side of sweet crunchy green papaya and carrot pickle (chruak l’hong or ជ្រក់ល្ហុង), served inside a crusty baguette or with steamed rice. In addition to the kroeung marinade, the beef is seasoned with oyster sauce and palm sugar along with a multitude of added variations ranging from toasted ground star anise, MSG, chili paste, or fish sauce. My version is inspired by a recipe taught to me by Pek Sarann, a Khmer cook from Phnom Penh and owner of Bok it Ihe (បុកឥតល្ហែ) restaurant in Koh Kong, who learned the recipe from her mother. While other Khmer cooks prefer a longer marinade for more developed flavors, Sarann cooks her skewers after a short 30-minute marinade, amplifying the freshness of the ingredients in the kroeung.
When preparing kroeung, it’s best to wear gloves, as fresh turmeric stains fingers. The quick-pickle is ready to eat after just 30 minutes. To make a more substantial meal, add steamed rice or serve inside a buttered baguette with the pickle, and drink with an ice-cold beer, just as the Khmer people do. —Lara Lee
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What you’ll need
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Food Processor
$63 At Amazon
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Cast Iron Skillet
$30 At Amazon
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Stainless Steel Skewer
$5.89 At Amazon
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Medium Bowl
$17 At Amazon
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Large Bowl
$18 At Amazon
Ingredients
6 appetizer servings or 4 main course servings
Pickled Vegetables
Marinade and Assembly
Special Equipment
Pickled Vegetables
Step 1
Toss shallot, garlic, ginger, and vegetables in a medium bowl to combine, then add vinegar, palm sugar, and salt. Cover and let sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes for a quick-pickle, or chill up to 12 hours..
Marinade and Assembly
Step 2
Pulse lemongrass, chiles, shallots, garlic, lime leaves, galangal, turmeric, oyster sauce, palm sugar, fish sauce, garlic powder, 2 Tbsp. oil, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a food processor to a finely textured paste.
Step 3
Transfer paste to a large bowl and add beef. Using your hands, massage paste into meat until completely coated. Cover and let sit at room temperature at least 30 minutes, or chill up to 12 hours. If chilling, let beef sit out at room temperature 1 hour before grilling.
Step 4
Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; oil grate. Thread beef onto skewers. (Alternatively, you can cook these in a cast-iron skillet lightly coated with oil.) Grill, turning about every minute or so, until browned and lightly charred in spots, 6–8 minutes for medium, or done to your liking. (The beef should be firm to the touch with a little bounce when pressed and slightly pink in the center.)
Step 5
Transfer skewers to plates and very lightly season with salt. Drain pickles and serve on the side.
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