During my college years, I’d return home to Los Angeles every summer and promptly—you guessed it—look for a restaurant job. One summer, I did a stage at L.A.’s premier French restaurant, L’Orangerie. I started my stage in the pastry kitchen with Chef Yves. He taught me the classic techniques of crème brûlée, chocolate puff pastry, and soufflés made to order. But my favorite of his desserts was sautéed apples with caramel sauce and crème anglaise. A little less formal and traditional than the rest of his repertoire, that dish was simple, straightforward, and all about the apples. To make our own version of Chef Yves’s apples at Lucques, we cut the apples in half, toss them with lots of butter, cinnamon, brown sugar, and Calvados, and roast them, basting all the time, until they are a deep golden brown and glistening with spicy juices. With a scoop of cinnamon ice cream melting over the apples, this easy-to-make dessert is an elegant way to finish a winter feast.
Ingredients
Cinnamon Ice Cream
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 425°F.
Step 2
Slice the vanilla bean lengthwise down the center, and use a paring knife to scrape the seeds and pulp into the butter. To make sure not to lose any of the seeds, run your vanilla-coated knife through the butter. Add the vanilla pod to the pan, and cook the butter and vanilla over medium heat 6 to 8 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until the butter browns and smells nutty. Remove from the heat, and discard the vanilla pod.
Step 3
Cut the apples in half through the core, and carefully remove the core and seeds with a paring knife (or, for a more dramatic presentation, leave the core and stems intact). Toss the apples in a large bowl with the sugars, brown butter, cinnamon, nutmeg, Calvados, and salt. Arrange the apples, cut side up, in a roasting pan. Top each half with the remaining sugar mixture from the mixing bowl.
Step 4
Bake the apples about 40 minutes, basting them with the pan juices every 10 minutes, until the flesh has pulled away from the skin and the apples are tender and carmelized.
Step 5
Arrange the warm apples on a large platter, and pour all the remaining juices over them. Serve with cinnamon ice cream and glasses of Calvados.
Cinnamon Ice Cream
Step 6
Place the milk, cream, cinnamon sticks, and ground cinnamon in a medium pot. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Turn off the heat, cover, and let the flavors infuse about 30 minutes.
Step 7
Bring the mixture back to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Turn off the heat.
Step 8
Whisk the egg yolks and sugar together in a bowl. Whisk a few tablespoons of the warm cream mixture into the yolks to temper them. Slowly, add another 1/4 cup or so of the warm cream, whisking to incorporate. At this point, you can add the rest of the cream mixture in a slow steady stream, whisking constantly. Pour the mixture back into the pot and return to the stove.
Step 9
中火煮蛋奶沙司6到8分钟,stirring with a rubber spatula, scraping the bottom and sides of the pan. The custard will thicken, and when it’s done will coat the back of the spatula. Strain it and chill at least 2 hours in the refrigerator. The base should be very cold before you churn it. Process in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Note
Step 10
I like to leave some of the cores and stems intact—the apples are a little harder to eat, but so beautiful that way.
I like to leave some of the cores and stems intact—the apples are a little harder to eat, but so beautiful that way.
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