This November, asapplesare picked,cranberriesare plucked from their bogs, andcanned pumpkinreturns to stores, home bakers, naturally, havepieon the brain. And so, apparently, do professional bakers and cookbook authors—at least judging by the number of pie-focused cookbooks set to be released this season.
有整个世界的信息ered within the seemingly narrow topic: TakePieometryby Lauren Ko, a self-taught baker whose modernist pie designs are anInstagram sensation. Her book will take you well beyond the classic lattice and encourage you to mix matcha or vibrant-hued butterfly pea powder with kiwi in your fillings.
For advice on classic pies and classic pie techniques, many bakers have long turned to Ken Haedrich, founder ofThe Pie Academy, an online educational community of pie bakers. Now, in a cookbook by the same name, Haedrich draws from a wide variety of American pie traditions in his collection of over 255 recipes. But it’s not all about the simple fruit pie:Pie Academy可以教你如何让西瓜皮成吗pie, how to whip up Depression-era pies filled with oats or Ritz crackers, and even how to turn other desserts like coffee cakes and brownies into excellent pies.
Maybe you learned how to frost a cake perfectly or even weave your first lattice from Erin Jeane McDowell in her first bookThe Fearless Bakeror in one of her great recipes on theNew York TimesorFood52. InThe Book on Pie,you’re invited to continue your baking education, but narrow in on pie. Go deep with puff pastries, master meringues, or learn the wonder of frybread crusts.
Just in time for pie season, we put these experts and varying pie perspectives in a (virtual) room to discuss pie tips and tricks, how to prep for holiday baking, and what they’ve learned in the thousands of successful (and failed) pies they’ve collectively baked. Plus, get somepie recipesfrom each baker's new book.
Ken Haedrich:I use eight tablespoons of butter and two tablespoons shortening (Crisco or lard), which I think helps to soften the dough a little bit. At the Pie Academy and on pie Facebook groups, everyone's always complaining about their crimping: The flutes they make don't stick, they relax. The little bit of shortening I put in acts as a muscle relaxer. It helps to actually keep your flutes in place. Butter crusts don't hold their shape quite as well. Of course, feel free to disagree with me. I'd like to hear your opinions.
Erin Jeanne McDowell:Well, I settled in the end on all butter because I like the flavor of butter best. But when I learned to bake pies with my grandma, it was 50/50 shortening and butter. That was how I learned! I agree with Ken; it's still what I advise people, especially anyone who's having consistent trouble. Shortening is also more forgiving. The melting point is higher than that of butter, so when people are working with it, it holds up better during the process of rolling and shaping.
I don't totally agree, though, about the crimps holding their shape. I have found that this comes down entirely to how you manipulate the crust and the size of the butter. Large pieces of butter, as I like for a flakier crust, doesn't hold its crimp quite as well as if you work it in a little bit more.
Lauren KoI am also all-butter. I approach it from a practical standpoint. When I was first learning how to make pies, it was just, the fewer ingredients I had to buy and use the better. And I enjoy the flavor ofall-butter pie crustbetter. For my designs, especially the ones that require a little more weaving and a little more time, I find that all-butter crust is a little more durable while still flaky and tender. Anytime I try to use or incorporate shortening into my pie, it becomes just a little bit too tender, and those dough strips don't hold as well for a design process that might take a little bit longer.