On our way home from a snowy April weekend in Chicago just a few days ago, my husband Steve was surprised to hear me declare that I'd finally had enough of winter. Having lived in New York and New England for most of my life, with stints in Chicago and Wisconsin, I'm no stranger to—and in fact I'm a lover of!—a long drawn-out chill. But now that it's April, even I'm starting to cave. A look into my grocery cart is my annual sign.
At the market recently, I hurried past the parsnips and cauliflower I've so enjoyed these last few months, en route instead to all things green. Not the kales, chards and broccoli, though. Instead, I reached for a couple of leeks, a bunch of asparagus and a bag of frozen peas (our local pods haven't surfaced quite yet; thank goodness forthe freezer aisle).
I sliced and gently cooked my leeks in olive oil over a low flame. If you're patient and don't rush this part of the dish, you'll be rewarded with a buttery, unctuous, 'melted' version of the vegetable that is, in a word, heaven.
While the leeks melted away, I seasoned a few pounds of bone-in chicken thighs with a simple mix of kosher salt, freshly ground pepper and fennel seeds. But first I cracked those seeds underneath the bottom of a heavy skillet, firmly rocking the pan over top a few times to help release their refreshing aroma and lightly anise-like flavor. (The cracking can also be done in a mortar and pestle or with a pulse or two in a spice grinder. No matter how you get there, you'll be happy you did.)
I crisped up the chicken in a hot skillet, then added some white wine and some store-bought chicken broth. While the thighs gently braised, I transferred the melted leeks to a plate, then used the same skillet (with the flavorful oil left in it) to cook the asparagus and peas.
At the finish, a squeeze of lemon juice plus a little zest gave the dish a vibrant punch that pulled together all of the flavors. (Lemon, of course, isknown to do this). And the sprinkling of dill that's the final touch? What can I say—I couldn't resist just a little more green.
