这道菜我古怪的理论证明,绿色和orange foods go together. Think about it: peas and carrots, oranges and asparagus, winter squash and arugula. Saffron, a beautiful rusty orange, pairs perfectly with spring’s green bounty. Saffron has been used as a flavoring and coloring agent (even as hair dye!) since ancient Egyptian times. The saffron thread is actually the stigma (part of the female reproductive organ) of the saffron crocus. Each one must be handpicked from the flower, which accounts for saffron’s outrageous price. Fortunately, a little goes a long way. Use it with a light hand, as too much saffron can easily overwhelm a dish. Buy whole threads, not powder, and store them in a cool, dark place. Buy only a little saffron at a time, so you’ll be able to use all of it while it’s still fresh.
Ingredients
Parmesan pudding
Step 1
Toast the saffron in a small pan over medium heat until it just dries and becomes brittle. Pound the saffron to a fine powder in a mortar. Dab a tablespoon of the softened butter into the saffron powder, using the butter to scoop up about half of the powder. Set aside.
Step 2
Stir 4 tablespoons olive oil into the mortar, scraping with a rubber spatula to incorporate all of the saffron powder.
Step 3
Toss the chicken breasts gently with the saffron oil, 2 teaspoons thyme, the parsley, and the lemon zest, coating the chicken well. Marinate in the refrigerator at least 4 hours, preferably overnight.
Step 4
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Season the chicken with salt and pepper on both sides. Swirl in 1 tablespoon olive oil and wait a minute. Place the chicken, skin side down, in the pan (you might need to cook the chicken in batches). Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, until the skin is crispy and golden brown. Turn the breasts over, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook them a few more minutes, until just cooked through and springy to the touch. Transfer the chicken to a resting rack.
Step 5
Return the pan to the stove over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter, and when it foams, add the sliced spring onions, sugar snap peas, 1/2 teaspoon salt, a pinch of pepper, and the remaining teaspoon thyme. Cook over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes, stirring, until the onions are translucent. Add the saffron butter and 1 tablespoon water. Swirl the pan, and when the liquid comes to a simmer, toss in the pea shoots and onion tops. Immediately remove the pan from the heat, and squeeze a little lemon juice over the vegetables. Taste for seasoning.
Step 6
Arrange the chicken on a large warm platter and spoon the vegetables over it. Serve with the hot Parmesan pudding.
Parmesan pudding
Step 7
Preheat the oven to 350°F.
Step 8
Heat a medium pot over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the butter, and when it foams, whisk in the flour, 1 tablespoon at a time, and cook for about 5 minutes, being careful not to let the flour brown. Slowly pour in the milk and cream, whisking constantly to incorporate it. The butter and flour will seize up and get pasty at first. Continue whisking vigorously as you add the liquid, and the mixture will become smooth. Cook a few more minutes, until warm to the touch. Remove the pan from the heat.
Step 9
Whisk the egg and egg yolk together in a small bowl. Slowly drizzle the eggs into the cream mixture, whisking continuously until combined. Stir in the cheese, and season with a heaping 1/2 teaspoon salt. Pour the mixture into an 8-by-6-inch (or equivalent) baking dish, and cover tightly with foil. Place the baking dish in a roasting pan, and add hot water to the pan until it comes halfway up the outside of the custard dish. Place the pan in the oven, and bake about 1 hour, until the pudding is just set.
Note
Step 10
Marinate the chicken the night before serving. You can make and bake the pudding ahead of time and refrigerate it covered. Bring it to room temperature about an hour before serving, and rewarm it in a 400°F oven 15 to 20 minutes, uncovered, until it’s hot and begins to brown slightly around the edges.
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