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Winter Squash Carbonara with Pancetta and Sage Christina Holmes

For the Love of Nonna, Please Stop Serving Pasta With Peas

One writer doesn't want to eat his vegetables.

My first real exposure to salty, smoky pasta carbonara was late one night in college, a few hours before a red eye flight home for the holidays. My roommate and I had decided to cook a big dinner, but we weren’t ready for just how huge carbonara actually was going to be.

I’m talking almost half a pound’s worth of smoked pork, with nutty and sharp Pecorino Romano playing yin to Parmesan’s buttery yang, all sprinkled over pasta with a plump poached egg on top. As I split the egg, a few quick fork turns got that egg yolk worked into the noodles for a silky sauce that had to be eaten quickly, lest it turn the pasta into a gluey mess. A couple flakes of chopped Italian parsley broke with strict carbonara tradition, and they didn't do much to lighten the dish up: this plate of pasta was about as dainty as a demolition derby.

In other words, it was perfect, and I've spent years trying to find a carbonara as satisfying. So far, it's been a disheartening journey. Because when I see this dish on restaurant menus, I become dismayed and definitely disgusted. These carbonaras have all of the Ps from my buzzy maiden attempt at carbonara (prosciutto, pancetta, Parmigiano, Pecorino), but with one extra, seemingly innocuous p:peas

And peas is where I drop the menu. I do not care if it's bringing a pop of green color or some sweetness to the overall dish's flavor. I do not care that the world wants me to eat more vegetables, and that peas are loaded with nutrients. Pasta carbonara with peas does not compute under any circumstance.

Squash carbonara, sure. Pea carbonara? GET OUT.

Christina Holmes

The salty, fatty mass that is spaghetti carbonara is a dish that’s about exploring the outer limits ofsalty and creamy indulgence within a pasta framework。有n个豌豆和他们的小的甜味o place in it. Serving the pasta with peas isn't going to balance out the dish at all; they’re just going to get overwhelmed and talked-over by the bigger flavors on board. Unless you just poured on a mountain of shriveled, thawed frozen peas, there's no chance they'll be able to withstand the powerhouse Ps.

I feel her pain.

Photo by Shutterstock

Which brings me to my next point.

I don’t know how else to say it, but green peas in pasta __look...weird. Look at a plate of pasta carbonara with peas and try not to see little green wrinkly eyeballs floating around in a nest of wispy noodles. It’s a hellish sight, and not one you're going to want to load up on and Instagram. But a broken egg yolk oozing into a pork-coverd pasta? That looks so good it's on the verge of NSFW.

Pasta carbonara has dealt with its fair share of recipe controversy: some folks are pretty adamant about using only guanciale (a fatty cut from the jowl) as the pork element, using the egg yolks in the actual sauce, and keeping cream far from the ingredient list. I’m on the fence about the cream—the egg yolks and grated cheese cover that base. As for guanciale, sure, itdoesbring a different kind of salty fullness.

But there is no budging on the issue of peas. If you absolutely must include something green, you can add chopped flat-leaf parsley. Then again, if youneedsome green, perhaps carbonara isn't your dish.May I recommend a salad instead?