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Grilled Escabeche with Pork

通常最有效的卤制不会发生fore but after cooking. This technique, usually called escabeche, was once used to preserve food. It’s really a form of pickling: hot food was put into hot liquid containing a good deal of vinegar. Treated thus, it would keep for some time (if canned, for a long time). Since we don’t need escabeche for preserving, the postgrilling marinating time can be as little as a few minutes, but it can also be as long as overnight—it doesn’t make much difference; in either case, it produces a highly flavored, prepared-in-advance, room-temperature dish that is good as part of a buffet with a variety of other dishes (none of which should be noticeably acidic). Other cuts of meat you can use here: any cut of chicken, bone in or out (be careful not to overcook), or mackerel or other fish (typically floured and sautéed or fried before marinating).

Ingredients

makes 4 servings

1/2 cup red wine or other vinegar
1 cup red wine
2 bay leaves
5 fresh thyme sprigs or 1 teaspoon dried
5 fresh marjoram or oregano sprigs or 1 teaspoon dried marjoram or 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
1 small dried or fresh chile, optional
1 large onion, white or red, cut in half and sliced into half-moons
3 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
1 tablespoon sugar
Salt and black pepper to taste
2 pork tenderloins, 1 1/2 to 2 pounds total
  1. Step 1

    Start a charcoal or gas grill or preheat the broiler; the fire should be moderately hot and the rack 4 to 6 inches from the heat source. As it is heating, combine all the ingredients except the pork (including a pinch of salt and a liberal grinding of pepper, at least 1/2 teaspoon) in a medium saucepan with 1 cup water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and simmer for about 5 minutes, or until the onion has softened just a bit. Pour into a deep platter large enough to accommodate the pork.

    Step 2

    Sprinkle the pork liberally with salt and pepper and brown it on all sides until it is nearly cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the meat should read 150°F), 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the pork, let it rest for a few minutes to cool, then put it on the platter with the marinade.

    Step 3

    If you are eager to eat, wait 10 minutes or so, then slice the pork about 1 inch thick and put it back in the marinade; wait another 15 minutes or so before eating. If you have time, let the pork sit in the marinade, whole, for a couple of hours (or overnight, refrigerated) before slicing and serving at room temperature, spooning a bit of the marinade (including some onion) over each slice.

The Best Recipes in the Worldby Mark Bittman. © 2005 by Mark Bittman. Published by Broadway Books. All Rights Reserved. MARK BITTMAN is the author of the blockbusterThe Best Recipes in the World(Broadway, 2005) and the classic bestsellerHow to Cook Everything, which has sold more than one million copies. He is also the coauthor, with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, ofSimple to SpectacularandJean-Georges: Cooking at Home with a Four-Star Chef.Mr. Bittman is a prolific writer, makes frequent appearances on radio and television, and is the host of The Best Recipes in the World, a 13-part series on public television. He lives in New York and Connecticut.
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