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韭菜和Potato Soup

This is really another take on the preceding vegetable soup, but it differs enough in detail to warrant a full-dress recipe. It is without question one of my favorite soups, and I usually plant a couple of rows of leeks in my garden so I can indulge myself at a moment’s notice. This is one soup in which I prefer to use water rather than stock, so that nothing interferes with the sweet, pronounced flavor of the leeks.

Ingredients

1 big, fat leek, or 2 slightly slimmer ones
1 smallish onion
2 small-to-medium new potatoes
1 tablespoon butter
3 cups water, or more as needed
Salt
Freshly ground pepper
1–2 tablespoons heavy cream (optional)
  1. Step 1

    Trim the leek(s), discarding the tough green tops, and cut them into 1-inch chunks. Rinse them thoroughly, and drain. Peel and chop the onion and potatoes. Melt the butter in a medium heavy pot, and sauté the onion for a few minutes, then add the leeks and potatoes, and sweat them over low heat another few minutes, stirring frequently. Pour in the water, add a pinch of salt, and bring to a boil. Cook at a lively simmer, with cover askew, for 1 hour, until the potatoes are velvety soft. Now mash roughly with a potato masher or a slotted spoon, and add considerably more salt to taste, and a few grindings of the pepper mill. Serve as is, or swirl some cream on to

  2. Variation

    Step 2

    For a creamier soup, purée everything with an immersion blender or in a food processor, and swirl in additional cream. Either enjoy hot, or turn it into a vichyssoise by adding at least 1/4 cup cream and sprinkling chives on top. If you want it both hot and cold, prepare double the amount, and put away half for a later treat of vichyssoise.

  3. Sorrel Soup

    Step 3

    In summer you may find sorrel in farmers’ markets or, if possible, grow some in your garden. Then you can easily make a simple version of that delicious French soup Potage Germiny by adding 1 cup of sorrel leaves, washed, stemmed, and cut in strips, to the leek, onions, and potatoes after you have sweated them. Finish the soup by puréeing and adding cream as described above.

The Pleasures of Cooking for Oneby Judith Jones. Copyright © 2009 by Judith Jones. Published by Knopf. All Rights Reserved. Judith Jones is senior editor and vice president at Alfred A. Knopf. She is the author ofThe Tenth Muse: My Life in Foodand the coauthor with Evan Jones (her late husband) of three books:The Book of Bread; Knead It, Punch It, Bake It!; andThe Book of New New England Cookery. She also collaborated with Angus Cameron onThe L. L. Bean Game and Fish Cookbook, and has contributed toVogue, Saveur, andGourmetmagazines. In 2006, she was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. She lives in New York City and Vermont.
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