Italians say that to ensure your octopus is tender, first you pound it on the dock as you bring it in from the boat, then you put a cork in the cooking pot. I don’t know what magical alchemic properties are supposed to be at work there, but I always put a cork in my pot, just to be sure. I like to use bigger octopi because I think they have more developed flavor. They’re a little chewier, but I don’t mind—that’s just part of the joy of octopus. Use the recipe as a guideline, and feel free to experiment with combinations of whatever aromatics you have on hand. As a variation, add 2 cups cooked corona beans to the octopus as it marinates.
Ingredients
serves 8
Step 1
In a large stockpot, place the octopus, cork, peppercorns, carrots, onion, garlic head, fennel, celery, and bay leaves. Cover with cold water. Bring to a light boil and then keep at the barest simmer for 1 hour to 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the octopus is tender. Place the entire pot in the refrigerator and allow the octopus to cool in the liquid.
Step 2
When cool, remove the octopus from the liquid, discarding the liquid. Cut into 1-inch chunks, including the head. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Step 3
In a large bowl, combine the lemon juice and olive oil. Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest from the lemon(s) and orange in large strips and add to the bowl. Slice the shallot into rings and add to the bowl with the sliced garlic and chile flakes. Add the octopus chunks and toss to coat. Allow to marinate at room temperature for about 1 hour, stirring about every 10 minutes to mingle the flavors. Serve at room temperature.