Brioche is a special bread because of its delicate crumb, richness and flavor. The traditional fat used is butter, but other cultures use lard. I propose one very good reason for using schmaltz instead of either: flavor! This is a delicious savory bread that makes superb dinner rolls to serve with chicken or turkey, a simple salad, chicken soup, or anything, really.
As far as I'm concerned, this version is out of the park (my assistant Emilia started it, I finished it, Marlene tested it and confirmed). You need to make it the day before you bake it, but it's a really simple preparation. It can be baked free-form, in individual ramekins, or in a loaf or terrine mold. Marlene made nifty "bubble top" rolls by filling muffin cups with three 1-ounce/30-gram balls, a technique she picked up from Dorie Greenspan's excellent bookAround My French Table. I had my first bite while it was still warm from the oven, with a little extra schmaltz and a sprinkling of Maldon sea salt. Heavenly. If you bake it in a rectangular mold, slice it and toast it, delicious.
This from Marlene: "OK, I want to say I was skeptical of this at the beginning. The dough smelled chickeny, not only while it was rising but also while it was baking. However, these totally rocked. There was no hint of chicken in the taste or the smell in the final product. The crust is the best I've ever produced. It was crisp, almost flaky, like biscuits. The crumb was delicate and soft."
Ingredients
One 2-pound/900-gram loaf, 9 bubble-top rolls, or 12 dinner rolls
Step 1
1. Combine the milk, honey and yeast in the bowl of a standing mixer fitted with a dough hook (this can also be done by hand in a large bowl if you don't have a mixer). Turn the mixer on to distribute the yeast. Add the flour and turn the mixer to medium speed. Once the flour has begun to absorb the liquid, add the eggs, one at a time. When the eggs are incorporated add the schmaltz, then the salt, and mix on high until all the ingredients are well incorporated, 3 to 5 minutes.
Step 2
2. Cover the mixing bowl with a lid or with plastic wrap and let the dough ferment and rise till it's doubled in size, about 3 hours (less if your kitchen is hot).
Step 3
3. Grease your cooking vessel (see below).
Step 4
4. Re-knead the dough by hand to redistribute the yeast and knock some of the gas out. Shape as desired: form into balls and place in a cake pan or springform mold for dinner rolls, in individual ramekins or a muffin pan, or put the whole dough ball as is in a terrine mold or loaf pan. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 8 to 36 hours.
Step 5
5. Remove the dough from the refrigerator 1-1/2 to 2 hours before baking (shorter if they're in individual portions, longer if a single loaf). Preheat your oven to 350°F/180°C. When they've reached room temperature and have started to rise, bake them. Individual portions will take about 25 minutes, whole loaves will take about 45 minutes. If you're uncertain about doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer- they're done when they've reached an internal temperature of 200°F/95°C. The crust should be an appealing golden brown.
Step 6
6. This dough can also be frozen after the fermentation stage. Shape or mold it, wrap it twice in plastic, and freeze. To bake the dough, refrigerate it for 24 hours, then allow it to temper and rise at room temperature for 2 hours before baking.
