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Tuna Carnitas

Tuna Carnitas on a white plate with tortillas on the left
Photograph by Miachel Pruett
  • Total Time

    3 hours

On a menu full of fresh Mexican seafood dishes, deep-fried tuna stands out. At Este in Austin, TX—one of ourBest New Restaurants of 2023—chef Fermín Nuñez transforms the delicate fish into crispy-but-tender cubes reminiscent of their porky namesake, piled atop a swoosh of creamy, smoky refried beans. While some diners were initially wary of tuna transformed this way, it won over many hearts (including that of our own restaurant editor Elazar Sontag) with its perfect balance of rich and bright flavors.

Nuñez uses fatty tuna belly at the restaurant, but this recipe recreates the dish’s hallmark texture with tuna steak tossed in rice flour before frying. And while the most time-intensive part of the recipe is braising dried pinto beans, don’t worry; you’ll be rewarded for your patience with enough leftovers to stow in the freezer for a rainy day.

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What you’ll need

Ingredients

6 servings

3 morita chiles, stems removed
1 medium tomato, halved
1 medium yellow onion, halved
10 garlic cloves, smashed
1磅干豆
1 avocado leaf (optional)
1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 2¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
8 oz. bacon, coarsely chopped
1中红色的洋葱, thinly sliced
1 Tbsp. sugar
1 cup plus 3 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar
1 tsp. dried oregano
1 tsp. garlic powder
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. smoked paprika
1 cup vegetable oil; plus more for frying fish
1 lb. tuna steaks, patted dry, cut into 1" pieces
¼ cup (45 g) rice flour or cornstarch
Microgreens or cilantro, warmed tortillas, and lime wedges (for serving)

Special Equipment

A deep-fry thermometer
  1. Step 1

    Toast3 morita chiles, stems removed, in a medium Dutch oven over medium heat, turning occasionally, until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add1 medium tomato, halved,1 medium yellow onion, halved,10 garlic cloves, smashed,1磅干豆, and1 avocado leaf(if using); pour in water to cover by at least 2". Increase heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer gently, adding water as needed to keep beans submerged, 1½ hours.

    Step 2

    Add1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher saltand continue to cook until beans are tender, 45–60 minutes. Remove avocado leaf; discard. Drain beans through a mesh sieve set over a medium bowl; set bean cooking liquid aside. Return beans and solids to pot.

    Step 3

    Meanwhile, cook8 oz. bacon, coarsely chopped, in a large cast-iron skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until browned and very crisp, about 20 minutes. Transfer bacon to a small bowl with a slotted spoon, leaving fat behind. Set skillet with fat aside.

    Step 4

    Place1中红色的洋葱, thinly sliced, in a small heatproof bowl. Bring1 Tbsp. sugar,1 cup distilled white vinegar,2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ½ cup water to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium, then pour over red onion and set aside to pickle.

    Step 5

    Add bacon,1 tsp. dried oregano,1 tsp. garlic powder,1 tsp. ground coriander,1 tsp. smoked paprika, 2 cups reserved bean cooking liquid, and remaining3 Tbsp. distilled white vinegarto pot with bean mixture. Using an immersion blender, blend until smooth. Season bean mixture with more salt if needed. (Alternatively, you can blend in batches in a regular blender.)

    Step 6

    Pour1 cup vegetable oilinto another medium Dutch oven or heavy pot (it should come about ½" up sides); fit with thermometer and heat over medium-high. Add bean mixture and cook, stirring and scraping bottom and sides of pot with a heatproof rubber spatula, until homogeneous and emulsified, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; cover with plastic wrap, pressing directly onto surface (this will prevent a skin from forming).

    Step 7

    Season1 lb. tuna steaks, patted dry, cut into 1" pieces, with salt, then place in a medium bowl. Add¼ cup (45 g) rice flour or cornstarch; toss to coat. Pour fresh oil into reserved skillet with fat to come 1" up sides. Fit with thermometer and heat until thermometer registers about 400°. Working in batches, cook tuna, tossing constantly, until lightly crisped on the outside but still a little pink in the center, about 30 seconds per batch. Transfer to a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet; season with salt.

    Step 8

    Scoop beans onto plates and smooth into an even layer; top with tuna, drained pickled onion, andmicrogreens or cilantro. Serve withwarmed tortillasandlime wedges.

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