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Gougères

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Gougères Alan Richardson

When you're an American in Paris, there's nothing more flattering than to have French people ask you to share your recipe for one of their national treasures. Of all the things I make for my French friends, this is the one that gets the most requests.

The easiest way to describe gougères is to call them cheese puffs. Their dough,pâte àchoux, is the same one you'd use for sweet cream puffs or profiteroles, but when the pâte àchoux is destined to become gougères, you fold in a fair amount of grated cheese. In France, I use Gruyère, Comté, Emmenthal, or, just for fun and a spot of color, Mimolette, Gouda's French cousin; in America, I reach for extra-sharp cheddar, and sometimes I add a little smoked cheese to the mix.

Gougères are made everywhere in France (and can be bought frozen in many stores), but their home is Burgundy, where they are the first thing you get when you sit down in almost any restaurant. In Burgundy, gougères are often served with the local aperitif, kir; chez Greenspan, where I serve them no matter what I'm pouring as a welcoming glass, my favorite sip-along is Champagne. I love the way Champagne's toastiness and gougères' egginess play together.

Although you must spoon out the puffs as soon as the dough is made, the little puffs can be frozen and then baked straight from the freezer, putting them in the realm of the doable even on the spur of the moment.

Ingredients

Makes about 36 gougères

1/2 cup whole milk
1/2 cup water
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 4 pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
5 large eggs, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups coarsely grated cheese, such as Gruyère or cheddar (about 6 ounces; see above)
  1. Step 1

    Position the racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Line two baking sheets with silicone baking mats or parchment paper.

    Step 2

    Bring the milk, water, butter, and salt to a rapid boil in a heavy-bottomed medium saucepan over high heat. Add the flour all at once, lower the heat to medium-low, and immediately start stirring energetically with a wooden spoon or heavy whisk. The dough will come together and a light crust will form on the bottom of the pan. Keep stirring—with vigor—for another minute or two to dry the dough. The dough should now be very smooth.

    Step 3

    Turn the dough into the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment or into a bowl that you can use for mixing with a hand mixer or a wooden spoon and elbow grease. Let the dough sit for a minute, then add the eggs one by one and beat, beat, beat until the dough is thick and shiny. Make sure that each egg is completely incorporated before you add the next, and don't be concerned if the dough separates—by the time the last egg goes in, the dough will come together again. Beat in the grated cheese. Once the dough is made, it should be spooned out immediately.

    Step 4

    为每个gougere使用约1汤匙的面团, drop the dough from a spoon onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches of puff space between the mounds. Using about 1 tablespoon of dough for each gougère, drop the dough from a spoon onto the lined baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches of puff space between the mounds. Slide the baking sheets into the oven and immediately turn the oven temperature down to 375 degrees F. Bake for 12 minutes, then rotate the pans from front to back and top to bottom. Continue baking until the gougères are golden, firm, and, yes, puffed, another 12 to 15 minutes or so. Serve warm, or transfer the pans to racks to cool.

  2. Serving

    Step 5

    Gougères are good straight from the oven and at room temperature. I like them both ways, but I think you can appreciate them best when they're still warm. Serve with kir, white wine, or Champagne.

  3. Storing

    Step 6

    The best way to store gougères is to shape the dough, freeze the mounds on a baking sheet, and then, when they're solid, lift them off the sheet and pack them airtight in plastic bags. Bake them straight from the freezer—no need to defrost—just give them a minute or two more in the oven. Leftover puffs can be kept at room temperature over night and reheated in a 350-degree-F oven, or they can be frozen and reheated before serving.

Reprinted courtesy of Houghton Mifflin Harcourt 2010
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Reviews (30)

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  • Miraculous recipe. Baked directly from freezer two months later, just as good.

    • christopherbromsey

    • UWS New York City

    • 4/8/2020

  • Surprisingly easy! I did use a mixer for adding in the eggs.

    • abedvm

    • greenwich ct

    • 6/8/2019

  • I make these with Cup4Cup gluten free flour and they are fabulous

    • pat.horrocks2702

    • Calgary, Alberta

    • 2/26/2019

  • I have made this numerous times, cooked and served immediately and cooked and served after freezing. No matter the cheese - gruyere, cheddar, parm - all work equally well. I’ve never had a bad batch. As a matter of fact, I’m just waiting for my eggs to come to room temp to make and freeze a batch for a neighborhood gathering tomorrow. I have no worries - they’ll be devoured.

    • Taszbo

    • W. Mass.

    • 1/11/2019

  • Have made three different versions. The favorite is the cayenne pepper and bacon, but the recipe just as is, is also wonderful. Made a few batches and keep them in my freezer now for an easy appetizer for dinner parties.

    • szatlanta

    • Atlanta

    • 12/31/2018

  • I have made these a few times now and keep them in my freezer as Dorie suggests. I recommend sifting the flour, it makes for a much smoother dough. I made these as is and have also tried a variation of 4 pieces of bacon chopped with 1/8 tsp cayenne pepper and then also a version with 1/4 tsp nutmeg and 1/8 tsp cayenne. The bacon version is my favorite!

    • szatlanta

    • Atlanta

    • 12/11/2018

  • I make these pretty frequently with different types of cheese, depending on what's in the fridge. I LOVE them. I make them from fresh and frozen. I make them large for a delicious snack when I want something cheesy, and I make them small for very fancy afternoon teas. They are always welcome and well received.

    • nengels

    • Omaha

    • 2/25/2018

  • I made these for Memorial Day cocktail party. I find that when making the dough it always comes out better if you mix it by hand. It's more work but so worth it! I used cheddar cheese and a tiny ice cream scoop to disperse. I made 55 little poofs. They came out PERFECT! Thanks for a great recipe.

    • Smaggy66

    • Long Island NY

    • 5/28/2017

  • i made these ahead and froze them for my daughters bridal shower. The cooked up just perfect and everyone loved them!! light and fluffy! I mixed Colby cheese and the greyere.

    • Anonymous

    • appleton WI

    • 6/7/2016

  • An updated review for the results of freezing the dough and then baking them. The fresh batch that I cooked right after making the dough was terrific. The batch I just cooked following the freezing directions for the remaining dough worked really well. They seemed slightly smaller and just a tiny bit grainy in texture, but otherwise cooked up really well in just about the same amount of time as the fresh batch. And it was terrific to pull them out of the oven as our guests arrived - the house smelled great, it was so nice to have something warm to serve with drinks on a chilly night, and everyone went back for seconds or thirds. All in all, this was a really successful recipe.

    • agasque

    • DC

    • 11/29/2015

  • Forgot to rate with forks. I definitely give this one four! I made a full batch and baked half for Thanksgiving pre-dinner. I have the other half in the freezer for future last minute appetizers. (note, we experimented warming these up in a microwave the next morning.... not recommended! They get soft and limp).

    • agasque

    • DC

    • 11/27/2015

  • These are great! I found the trick to making sure they don't lose their shape in the oven is to beat the dough longer than you think you should. I used gruyere and a pinch of nutmeg and cayenne. Perfect with drinks before dinner.

    • agasque

    • DC

    • 11/27/2015

  • They are delicious but simple. They would do better on a platter of various appetizers than alone.

    • sqlbait

    • California

    • 4/4/2013

  • 5 eggs is definitely too many. The taste is good (you cannot go wrong there) but the dough is a tad too runny so they tend to be on the flat side (unless you make tiny ones). Also as another reviewer said they need to be baked till they are deep golden/brown to retain the shape.

    • Anonymous

    • BOSTON, MA

    • 12/26/2012

  • Boohoo! Mine did not turn out. They were pretty much flat discs and did not have much of a taste! Damn, there goes a waste of my range free farmer's market eggs. The directions on getting the dough just right in the sauce pan were really not specific enough. I thought I had "dry" dough, but maybe not. I enjoyed the writing and the article though.

    • Pariscafe

    • California

    • 7/7/2012

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