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Grilled Pork Confit with Braised Rice Soubise and Roasted Figs

This grilled pork confit evolved one night when I was making a staff meal at Lucques. I salvaged the leftover ends and trimmings from the day’s pork confit, crisped them in my favorite cast-iron pan, and ran to the walk-in to see what produce I could find to add to the dish. When I got back to the stove, I noticed half the meat was missing. Looking around, I saw that all the cooks had their heads down, suspiciously quiet. Half of my staff meal had disappeared, but I couldn’t be angry. Who can resist succulent pork, hot and crispy, out of the pan? Something so irresistible deserved to be shared with the outside world, so I put this staff meal on the menu!

Ingredients

2 1/2 to 3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, trimmed of excess fat
Brine (recipe follows)
2 to 3 quarts rendered duck or pork fat
10 fresh figs
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
Braised rice soubise (recipe follows)
1 bunch dandelion greens, cleaned
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

Brine

2 tablespoons juniper berries
2 tablespoons allspice berries
1 tablespoon fennel seeds
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/2 cup kosher salt
2 cloves
2 bay leaves
2 chiles de árbol
1 onion, sliced
1/2 bulb fennel, sliced
1 carrot, peeled and sliced on the diagonal
4 sprigs thyme
4 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
(makes about 4 quarts)

Braised Rice Soubise

4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 cup diced white onion, plus 6 cups thinly sliced white onions (about 1 1/2 pounds)
1 tablespoon thyme leaves
1/4 teaspoon ground white pepper
1/4 cup Arborio rice
1/4 cup grated Gruyère cheese
1/3 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Kosher salt
  1. Step 1

    Three days before serving, trim the pork of excess fat and sinew, and place it in the brine. It should be completely submerged. Refrigerate the pork in the brine for 48 hours.

    Step 2

    After 48 hours, remove the pork from the brine. Pat it dry with paper towels, and let it sit out 1 hour to come to room temperature.

    Step 3

    Preheat the oven to 300°F.

    Step 4

    Heat the duck fat in a large Dutch oven over low heat until just warm and melted.

    Step 5

    Carefully lower the pork into the fat. It should be completely submerged. Cook 5 to 6 hours, until the meat yields easily to a paring knife when pierced. If at any time the fat starts to boil, turn the oven down to 250°F.

    Step 6

    When the pork is done, remove it from the oven and let cool in the fat about 1 hour. Carefully take the pork out of the fat, and refrigerate it overnight. Strain the fat, reserve 4 tablespoons, and store the rest in the freezer.

    Step 7

    Light the grill 30 to 40 minutes before you’re ready to cook.

    Step 8

    Preheat the oven to 400°F.

    Step 9

    Slice the figs in half lengthwise. Place the halves in a roasting pan, and drizzle them with the olive oil. Season with the thyme, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and a pinch of pepper. Roast in the oven 10 to 12 minutes, until the figs are slightly caramelized and sizzling.

    Step 10

    Place the chilled pork confit on a cutting board, and slice it against the grain into 1/2-to-3/4-inch-thick slabs (about 5 to 6 ounces each). Brush the slabs with a little pork fat. Taste a little piece of the pork to make sure it’s seasoned correctly. If not, season with salt and pepper.

    Step 11

    When the coals are broken down, red, and glowing, place the pork on the grill and let it sear a few minutes without moving it. Cook a few more minutes, rotating the meat, to crisp and caramelize it. Turn the pork over and finish cooking, another 4 to 5 minutes, on the second side. The meat should be very crisp with a deep golden crust.

    Step 12

    Spoon the soubise onto a large warm platter, and scatter the dandelion greens over it. Arrange the pork confit and figs (with their juices) over the soubise and greens.

  2. Brine

    Step 13

    Crush the juniper berries coarsely in a mortar. Repeat with the allspice and then the fennel seeds.

    Step 14

    Dissolve the sugar and salt in 2 cups hot water (just hot enough to dissolve the sugar) in a large, very clean container. Add the juniper berries, allspice berries, fennel seeds, cloves, bay leaves, chiles, onion, fennel, carrot, thyme, and parsley. Add 3 quarts very cold water, and stir to combine all the ingredients.

  3. Braised Rice Soubise

    Step 15

    Preheat the oven to 350°F.

    Step 16

    Heat a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium heat for 1 minute. Add the butter, and when it foams, add the diced and sliced onions, thyme, 2 teaspoons salt, and the white pepper. Turn the heat down to medium-low, and cook the onions gently, for about 10 minutes, stirring often. They should soften and wilt but not be allowed to color at all.

    Step 17

    While the onions are cooking, bring a small pot of water to a boil. Cook the rice 5 minutes in the boiling water and drain well. Stir the rice into the onions.

    Step 18

    Remove the pot from the heat. Cover it with aluminum foil and a tight-fitting lid if you have one. Cook in the oven 30 minutes.

    Step 19

    Remove from the oven and let the soubise “rest,” covered, about 30 minutes.

    Step 20

    Just before serving, uncover the soubise (it will emit lots of steam, so be careful). Heat it over medium heat, stirring once or twice. When the soubise is hot, stir in the cheese and cream. Taste for seasoning, and stir in the parsley.

  4. Note

    Step 21

    Brine the pork 3 days before serving. After 2 days, when the pork comes out of the brine (the day before serving), confit it, and chill overnight. The meat should be very cold, or it will be hard to slice. Start the braised rice soubise 1 hour and 15 minutes or so before serving. It can sit covered and then be rewarmed and finished with the cheese and cream right before serving. Roast the figs while you grill the confit. You could crisp the pork in cast-iron pans rather than grilling it, if you prefer. Heat two large cast-iron pans over high heat 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons fat to each pan, and heat another minute. Carefully place the meat in the pan, and cook 4 to 5 minutes on each side, until nicely browned. You can store the leftover fat in the freezer.

Sunday Suppers at Lucques[by Suzanne Goin with Teri Gelber. Copyright © 2005 by Suzanne Goin. Published by Knopf Doubleday Publishing Group. All Rights Reserved.. Suzanne Goin graduated from Brown University. She was named Best Creative Chef byBostonmagazine in 1994, one of the Best New Chefs byFood & Winein 1999, and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2003, 2004, and 2005. She and her business partner, Caroline Styne, also run the restaurant A.O.C. in Los Angeles, where Goin lives with her husband, David Lentz. Teri Gelber is a food writer and public-radio producer living in Los Angeles. ](http://astore.amazon.com/epistore-20/detail/1400042151)
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