The Liberty Ducks we get from Sonoma County Poultry (see page 147) are fed an all-natural diet and allowed to mature for several more weeks than most commercial ducks. As a result, they develop more flavor. The meaty duck legs, braised slowly with aromatic vegetables, make a robust pasta sauce similar in richness and depth to a classic bolognese. Brian shreds the tender duck meat after it’s braised and adds chopped Tuscan kale to the sauce to introduce some fresh garden flavor.
Ingredients
serves 6
Step 1
Trim the excess flap of skin on each duck leg and remove visible fat. Season all over with salt and pepper. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over high heat. Add the duck, skin side down, and brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Transfer the duck to a platter. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons fat.
Step 2
Add the pancetta to the pot and cook over medium heat until it renders some of its fat and begins to crisp. Add the onions, celery, carrot, and parsley and sauté until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. Add the tomatoes and wine. Bring to a simmer and reduce until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Return the duck to the pot, skin side up. Add the stock and the Parmesan rind (if using) and bring to a simmer. Cover and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. Simmer until the meat is tender and pulls readily from the bone, about 1 1/2 hours. Lift the duck legs out of the sauce and set them aside to cool.
Step 3
Tear each kale leaf into 3 or 4 pieces. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the kale and blanch for 30 seconds, then drain in a sieve and cool quickly under cold running water. Squeeze well to remove excess water. Finely chop.
Step 4
Pull the duck meat off the bones and dice it. Return it to the sauce and reheat gently. Stir in the kale and the milk. Simmer gently for about 10 minutes to blend the flavors.
Step 5
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. Set aside 1 cup of the pasta water, then drain the pasta and add it to the sauce. Toss well, moistening if necessary with some of the reserved pasta water. Divide among warm bowls and serve immediately. Pass Parmesan cheese, if desired.
Step 6
Enjoy with Cakebread Cellars Carneros Pinot Noir or another rich Pinot Noir.
