This is one of the simplest recipes in this book, and it is one of the most sublime. Yes, truffles add a mystique—but even without them this is my favorite way to cook eggs. Essential to this procedure is never to allow the olive oil to reach temperatures at which heat alters and degrades the flavors. Hence, you will ultimately have the full presence of fresh olive oil in a natural state intermingled with the egg and truffle flavors. Thus, the quality of the olive oil is paramount here, more than in most cooked dishes. I like using lighter and more vegetal olive oils from the Lago di Garda district, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, or Istria. Another important point is to keep the curd of the egg large and soft. The steady but gentle dragging of the curds—strapazzati means “dragged”—and controlled heat prevents any part from cooking solid, and in this moist state all the natural flavor of the egg comes through. As with olive oil, the best quality eggs are essential—as fresh as can be, and organic if possible. There is a basic lesson to be learned in this recipe that applies to Italian cooking—for that matter, to all cooking—get the best ingredients, do not overcrowd the flavors, and work the food as little as possible. Along with this lesson, I am sure, you’ll get some of the best scrambled eggs you’ve ever tasted—even without truffles.
Ingredients
serves 4 as a light meal or 6 as an appetizer
Recommended Equipment
Step 1
Beat the eggs and the salt very well in a large bowl.
Step 2
Pour the olive oil into the skillet, swirl it to coat the bottom and sides, and set on a stove burner, heat off.
Step 3
Pour and scrape all the eggs into the skillet. Turn the heat on high. Wait a few seconds, just until the heat starts to permeate the pan and reach the eggs. Gently slide the spatula from the side of the pan into the center, dragging the first coagulated eggs with it. Repeat the motion, drawing in eggs from another spot.
Step 4
Steadily move around the pan, constantly pulling in cooked eggs with the spatula blade, as uncooked eggs flow into the cleared space. As you drag them, the eggs will form long rippling sheets. Don’t break them up, but keep gathering them gently, into a soft mass of ruffles.
Step 5
Lower the heat if the eggs sizzle—don’t let them brown. As soon as the sides stay clear and no loose egg is flowing, turn off the heat. If there’s a lot of wet, uncooked egg caught in the ruffles—more than you like—tumble the mass over gently to cook them, but don’t break it up. Or leave the eggs wet and soft, as I like them.
Step 6
Quickly divide the eggs in equal portions on warm plates, and immediately shave paper-thin flakes of truffle, a dozen or so, on top of each one. Serve right away, as the heat releases the aroma of truffle.
