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Eggplant Biryani

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Photography by Isa Zapata. Food Styling by Cyd McDowell. Prop Styling by Paige Hicks

Biryani is a labor of love. From frying the onions and making the meat or vegetable masala to parboiling the rice and layering all the components, it may seem like a lot of work, but theoohsand兴奋when you bring a big, beautiful, steaming pot of biryani to the table are well worth the hours of effort. If you’re preparing this as part of a holiday feast and are looking to break up the work, you can fry the onions and make the eggplant masala the day before and refrigerate them overnight (the onions will end up getting steamed, so retaining their crispiness isn’t important here). On the day of, reheat the eggplant masala, parboil the rice, and layer everything up!

There are many types of biryani across India, each one varying in spices, flavorings, and preparation. This vegetarian version pulls flavors from some of my favorite regional biryani—plenty of rich red chile powder from Hyderabadi biryani, fennel from Lucknowi biryani, and warming spices such as mace and nutmeg from Kolkata biryani. It's assembled using the Pukka method, in which the meat—or, in this case, the eggplant—and rice are cooked separately, then layered and steamed together. Serve with plenty of chopped cilantro, plain yogurt (a must!), and lemon wedges.—Asha Loupy

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What you’ll need

Ingredients

6–8 servings

Eggplant Masala and Fried Onions

¾ cup plain whole-milk yogurt
2茶匙。ground turmeric
Freshly ground black pepper
2茶匙。Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more
4 medium Chinese or Japanese eggplants, halved lengthwise, sliced crosswise on a diagonal 2" thick, or 1–2 medium globe eggplants, cut into 1½" pieces (about 2 lb. total)
1½ tsp. coriander seeds
2 blades of mace or ¼ tsp. ground mace (optional)
2茶匙。cumin seeds, divided
2茶匙。克什米尔智利粉
½ tsp. ground cinnamon
¼ tsp. freshly ground nutmeg
1 cup canola or vegetable oil
3 large white or yellow onions, 2 thinly sliced, 1 finely chopped
½ tsp. fennel seeds
1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped
4大蒜cloves, finely chopped
2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste
1 14-oz. can crushed tomatoes

Rice and Assembly

2 cups basmati rice
4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
6 whole cloves
2 bay leaves
2 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 Tbsp. Morton kosher salt
Large pinch of saffron threads (optional)
1 serrano chile, halved, thinly sliced, divided
¾ cup chopped cilantro leaves with tender stems, divided, plus more for serving
Plain whole-milk yogurt and lemon wedges (for serving)

Special Equipment

A spice mill or mortar and pestle
  1. Eggplant Masala and Fried Onions

    Step 1

    搅拌together yogurt, turmeric, a few grinds of pepper, and 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a large bowl. Add eggplant and toss with your hands until well coated. Let sit at room temperature 30 minutes.

    Step 2

    Meanwhile, grind coriander seeds, mace blades (if using), and 1½ tsp. cumin seeds in spice mill or with mortar and pestle to a fine powder. Transfer to a small bowl and mix in chile powder, cinnamon, and nutmeg (if you’re using ground mace, add it here).

    Step 3

    Heat oil in a large (6–7-qt.) Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high. Stir in half of sliced onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until deep golden brown, 9–12 minutes. (Keep an eye on the onions during the last few minutes, as they will darken quickly.) Using a slotted spoon, transfer onions to a paper-towel-lined plate to drain. Repeat process with remaining sliced onions; set onions aside.

    Step 4

    Reduce heat to medium and add fennel seeds and remaining ½ tsp. cumin seeds to pot. Cook until seeds start to sputter and turn a shade darker, 30–60 seconds. Add chopped onion and ginger and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is translucent and starting to turn golden, 7–9 minutes. Add garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until tomato paste is brick red and garlic is fragrant, about 2 minutes. Add spice mixture; cook, stirring constantly, until very fragrant, about 1 minute.

    Step 5

    Add eggplant along with any marinade to pot. Cook, stirring constantly, 3 minutes. Using a wooden spoon, stir in crushed tomatoes, remaining 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ½ cup water, scraping up any browned bits stuck to the bottom of pot. Reduce heat to low, cover pot, and cook, stirring occasionally, until eggplant is cooked through and easily pierced with a fork, 30–45 minutes.

    Step 6

    Uncover pot, increase heat to medium-low, and cook until sauce is reduced by a third and clings to eggplant (you don’t want the masala to be too wet or it will result in soggy rice), 8–10 minutes. Taste and season with more salt if needed. Remove from heat and cover pot to keep eggplant masala warm.

  2. Rice and Assembly

    Step 7

    While the eggplant is cooking, place rice in a medium bowl and rinse in several changes of cold water, swishing rice with your fingers, until water runs almost clear. Fill bowl with cold water to cover rice by 2" and let soak at room temperature 30 minutes; drain.

    Step 8

    Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add cardamom, cloves, bay leaves, and salt; boil 2 minutes to infuse. Stir in rice and cook until barely al dente, about 4 minutes. Drain and set aside. Pick out and discard the whole spices if desired.

    Step 9

    Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 400°. Place saffron (if using) in a small bowl and cover with 2 Tbsp. hot water. Let sit at least 15 minutes.

    Step 10

    Transfer half of eggplant masala to a medium bowl and set aside. Spread remaining eggplant masala in an even layer in its pot. Top with half of rice (do not pack it down; you want to give the rice space to cook fully and become fluffy). Top with half of chile, half of cilantro, and half of reserved fried onions. Layer with reserved eggplant masala, then with remaining rice. Drizzle with saffron water (including saffron threads); scatter remaining chile, cilantro, and fried onions over top.

    Step 11

    Cover pot with a tight-fitting lid and bake 25 minutes. Let biryani sit, still covered (do not peek!), 15 minutes.

    Step 12

    Mound biryani on a platter or serve straight from pot. Top with lots of chopped cilantro; serve with yogurt and lemon wedges.

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  • Very flavorful and great with the lemon and yogurt

    • RH

    • VA

    • 3/27/2023

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