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Escabèche

Alejandro O’Reilly was the Irish-born Spanish general sent to bring the Louisiana Territories to order after France ceded the region to Spain. Throughout New Orleans cooking you will see an easy blending of French and Spanish culinary styles, easier perhaps than the actual history of the Louisiana Territory. This escabèche is inspired by the history of that city I love to visit. From the Irish Channel to the funky music district of Frenchmen Street, the Spanish influence can still be tasted.

Ingredients

serves 6

1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3 pounds catfish fillets
About 1 cup olive oil
2 large yellow onions, thinly sliced
2 carrots, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 hot peppers, seeded and thinly sliced
2 bay leaves
Sprig of fresh thyme
12 whole black peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
Pinch of saffron threads
1/2 cup sherry vinegar
  1. Step 1

    Put the flour in a large shallow dish; dredge the fish in the flour to coat lightly.

    Step 2

    In a large skillet or sauté pan, heat about 1/4 cup of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the fish in batches and cook until brown on both sides and just cooked through, about 10 minutes, adding more oil as needed for each batch. Transfer the fish to paper towels to drain.

    Step 3

    Wipe the skillet clean and heat 1/4 cup of the oil over medium heat. Add the onions, carrots, garlic, peppers, bay leaves, thyme, peppercorns, salt, red pepper flakes, and saffron. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are soft and brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the vinegar. Let cool completely.

    Step 4

    Put the fish in a glass baking dish. Pour the cooled vegetable mixture over the fish, cover tightly, and refrigerate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours.

  2. Notes

    Step 5

    Stack this marinated fish on toast for delicious tapas.

  3. Step 6

    In 1769 Governor O’Reilly had six French loyalists executed at the foot of what is now the groovy music club strip, Frenchmen Street.

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