The classic custard of Spain, widely made throughout Latin America, is like crème brûlée, but upside down and lighter. Like any custard, it must not be overcooked. The center must be quite jiggly when you remove it from the oven—for beginners, this is a leap of faith, but it’s the only way to keep the custard smooth.
Ingredients
makes 4 servings
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 300°F and bring a kettle of water to a boil. Put the milk in a small saucepan with the cinnamon over medium heat. Cook just until it begins to steam, about 10 minutes, then cool a bit.
Step 2
Meanwhile, combine 1/2 cup of the sugar and 1/4 cup water in a small heavy saucepan over low heat. Cook, shaking the pan occasionally (it’s best not to stir), until the sugar liquefies and turns clear, then golden brown, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and immediately pour the caramel into the bottom of a flat ovenproof bowl or gratin dish, or 4 individual ramekins.
Step 3
Beat the eggs and yolks with the salt and remaining 1/2 cup sugar until pale yellow and fairly thick. Remove the cinnamon stick (if you used it) and gradually add the milk to the egg mixture, stirring constantly. Pour the mixture into the prepared bowl or ramekins and place in a baking pan, adding hot water to within about 1 inch of the top.
Step 4
Bake for about 40 (for the ramekins) to 50 (for the bowl) minutes, or until the center is barely set. (It’s best to start checking after 30 minutes or so, to avoid overcooking.) Serve warm or at room temperature or cover and refrigerate for a day or so. You can serve by spooning from the bowl, or in the ramekins. Or you can unmold by putting the cups in a bowlful of hot water for 30 seconds or so, then inverting; spoon any melted caramel on top of the custards.
Vanilla Flan
Step 5
Substitute 1 vanilla bean, split lengthwise, for the cinnamon stick or add 1 teaspoon vanilla extract to the steamed milk after it cools a bit.
Coconut Flan
Step 6
Substitute homemade (page 584) or canned coconut milk for the milk or cream.
Pumpkin Flan
Step 7
This makes 6 to 8 flans, and is best with calabaza—Caribbean pumpkin—if you can find it, butternut squash or a not-too-stringy pumpkin if not: Steam or poach about 2 cups peeled and cubed pumpkin or squash until very tender, about 20 minutes. Cool, then puree with some of the milk after it has cooled. Increase the sugar to 1 1/2 cups, still divided in half (increase the water for the caramel slightly). Increase the eggs to 3 eggs and 3 yolks and proceed as directed.
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