The featured ingredient in this homey egg dish is mam nem, a thick, taupe sauce made of salted and fermented fish that is pungent and earthy like a delicious stinky cheese but mellows when combined with other ingredients. This southern Vietnamese seasoning is usually labeled fish sauce, but is different than light, clear regular fish sauce, or nuoc mam. Before using it, shake the small, long-necked bottle vigorously to blend the solids and liquid. In this recipe, the cellophane noodles absorb the savory depth of the sauce and plump up during steaming to give the egg mixture its firm texture. At Vietnamese restaurants in the United States, a small piece of this steamed egg is often included as a side item on rice plates. At my house, I prefer to serve it as a main dish, accompanied by rice, a quick soup (canh), and stir-fried water spinach (page 178).
Ingredients
serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes
Step 1
In a skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute for 1 minute, or until sweetly fragrant. Add the pork, using a spatula to break it into small pieces, then cook, stirring, for 3 minutes, or until it is still a little pink. Add as much of the fermented fish sauce as needed to create a robust-smelling mixture and then add the salt, pepper, and sugar. Continue cooking, stirring often, for about 2 minutes, or until the pork is completely done. Transfer to a bowl and let cool for 10 minutes.
Step 2
Meanwhile, fill the steamer pan halfway with water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat.
Step 3
Add the eggs, cellophane noodles, and scallions to the pork and combine well with a spatula. Oil an 8-inch round or square cake pan and line the bottom with parchment paper. Pour in the egg mixture. Use the spatula to distribute the ingredients evenly and smooth the top. Place the pan in the steamer tray.
Step 4
Place the steamer tray over the boiling water, cover, and steam the egg mixture for 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Turn off the heat and uncover. Let cool for 10 minutes before removing the pan.
Step 5
Run a knife around the inside edge of the pan to loosen the egg, then invert a plate on top of the pan. Invert the pan and plate together and lift off the pan. Peel off the parchment paper and then invert the steamed egg onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges or squares. Serve hot or warm.
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