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Gumbo z’Herbes

This fabulous, herbaceous gumbo used to be primarily a meatless Lenten dish, served on Good Friday. It is a pretty rare find on menus these days, but if you should come across it, give it a try. It is a thinner, soupier gumbo than most, and you’ll be surprised how much flavor the greens impart to the broth. When I made it the first time, I thought of how wonderful oysters would taste with the herbs, so I decided to top it off with a few fried ones. You could still serve it during Lent, but don’t reserve this delicious gumbo for once a year.

Ingredients

makes 8 to 10 servings

1/2 cup cooking oil (or bacon fat), plus more for frying oysters
1/2 cup flour
2 medium onions, chopped
2 green bell peppers, chopped
1/2 bunch celery, chopped
2 medium turnips, peeled and chopped
1 cup plus 1/2 cup chopped scallions
2 garlic cloves, minced
6 cups total of 2 or more of the following (washed thoroughly and coarsely chopped): turnip greens, mustard greens, collard greens, spinach, kale, escarole, or chard
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves, or 1 teaspoon dried
1 teaspoon filé powder
2 quarts Chicken Stock (p. 206)
1 pint oysters (strain and reserve the liquor)
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Bouquet Garni (p. 145) made with parsley stems, bay leaf, and thyme
Salt and pepper
Hot sauce
Cornmeal, for dusting
Cooked white rice, optional
  1. Step 1

    Heat 1/2 cup oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until almost smoking. Carefully whisk in the flour. Continue whisking until the roux is the color of peanut butter, or a little darker. Add the onions, bell peppers, celery, turnips, 1 cup scallions, and garlic, and cook, stirring to coat vegetables with roux, for 5 minutes. Add the greens, stir, and cook for about 10 minutes, or until they are wilted; add the thyme and filé powder. Stir in the chicken stock, 2 cups at a time, bringing the mixture to a boil after each addition. Whisk in the oyster liquor and Worcestershire sauce. Bring the gumbo to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer. Add the Bouquet Garni and cook over medium-low heat for about 1 hour, adding more chicken stock or water if the mixture gets too thick. Season to taste with salt, pepper, and hot sauce.

    Step 2

    Heat 1/2 inch of the vegetable oil in a medium skillet to about 350°F. Dust raw oysters with cornmeal and shallow-fry very quickly, until golden. Season with salt and pepper.

    Step 3

    To serve the gumbo, ladle generous portions into bowls and garnish each bowl with 3 oysters, the remaining scallions, and hot rice, if desired.

From Crescent City Cookingby Susan Spicer Copyright (c) 2007 by Susan Spicer Published by Knopf. Susan Spicer was born in Key West, Florida, and lived in Holland until the age of seven, when her family moved to New Orleans. She has lived there ever since, and is the owner of two restaurants, Bayona and Herbsaint. This is her first cookbook. Paula Disbrowe was the former Cowgirl Chef at Hart & Hind Fitness Ranch in Rio Frio, Texas. Prior to that, she spent ten years working as a food and travel writer. Her work has appeared inThe New York Times,Food & Wine, andSaveur, among other major publications.
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