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Octopus and Ceci Bean Zuppa With Escarole, Garlic, and Chiles

Photo of octopus and ceci soup from A16 in a bowl
Octopus and Ceci Bean Zuppa with Escarole, Garlic, and Chiles Ed Anderson

Octopus comes with its own braising liquid: just put it in a pot on the stove top, turn on the heat, and a couple of inches of water will soon appear at the bottom of the pot. It is a great little secret that this dish is actually quite simple. Of course, any Neapolitan will tell you that the only octopus worth eating come from the Tyrrhenian Sea, and finding a Tyrrhenian octopus in California is a tall order. But we do have access to fresh octopus from the Pacific, which are a treat. If you cannot find fresh octopus, frozen ones are more widely available. Sometimes you will see frozen cooked octopus for sale, which are not the best option for this soup, though they will do. If you do use precooked octopus, decrease the braising time to 30 minutes and add about 2 cups water to the pot (the cooked octopus won't release sufficient liquid). And if you buy only octopus tentacles, you will also probably need to add water to the pot. Finally, I make this soup with the 4-pound specimens we get at A16, so if you can only find 2-pound octopus, you will need to buy a pair of them. Don't worry if they look large. They will shrink up as they release their water.

Ingredients

Serves 8 as a first course, or 6 as a main course

1/2 cup dried ceci beans (chickpeas)
Kosher salt
2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing
6 cloves garlic, smashed with the side of a knife
Rind of 1/2 lemon, zested into strips using a vegetable peeler
2 bay leaves
1 (3- to 4-pound) octopus, defrosted, if frozen, and rinsed
1 head escarole (about 12 ounces), cored
3 celery stalks, thinly sliced
3 to 4 Calabrian chiles, stemmed and minced
  1. Step 1

    Pick over the beans, removing any broken pieces and pebbles, and rinse well. Place in a bowl, add water to cover generously, and let soak for at least 2 hours or up to overnight.

    Step 2

    Drain the beans, place in a pot, and add water to cover by about 2 inches. Bring the beans to a boil over high heat, adjust the heat to a slow simmer, and cook, uncovered, for 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until tender. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and remove from the heat. Let cool completely, transfer the beans and their liquid to a storage container, and refrigerate overnight. Drain the beans, reserving their liquid. You should have 1 to 2 cups liquid, and you will need 2 cups for this recipe. If you have less than 2 cups, add water to the cooking liquid to bring it to 2 cups.

    Step 3

    In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, heat 1/3 cup of the olive oil over medium heat. Stir in 3 of the garlic cloves, the strips of lemon zest, 1 bay leaf, and 2 teaspoons kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3 minutes, or until the garlic begins to soften. Add the octopus, stir to coat it with the oil, and then weight it down with a plate or lid to ensure it does not begin to float once it starts releasing its water. Cover the pot and adjust the heat to a gentle simmer. The octopus should start slowly releasing its water, creating its own braising liquid.

    Step 4

    Cook for about 30 minutes and check to see how much braising liquid is in the pot. If it is about 1 cup or less (unlikely if you are using an uncooked whole octopus), add 1 cup of water. Check the tenderness and continue to cook for 30 to 50 minutes longer, or until almost completely tender. The octopus will dramatically decrease in volume. Remove the pot from the heat and allow the octopus to cool in the braising liquid for 1 hour.

    Step 5

    Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Add the escarole and cook for about 3 minutes, or until tender. Drain well and when cool enough to handle, chop the leaves coarsely and set aside.

    Step 6

    Place a colander over a large bowl. Once the octopus has cooled for 1 hour, transfer it to the colander. Strain the braising liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a measuring pitcher. Add any extra liquid that has drained from the octopus into the bowl to the braising liquid. You will need 1 cup for the zuppa. Give the pot used to cook the octopus a quick wash and return it to the stove.

    Step 7

    Transfer the octopus to a large cutting board. Starting at the thickest point of the tentacle, slice into 1/4-inch-thick-pieces, increasing the thickness of the pieces as the tentacle becomes narrower. Halve the head, then cut it into 1/4-inch strips. Set aside.

    Step 8

    To prepare thezuppa, heat the remaining 1/3 cup olive oil in the cleaned pot over medium heat. Add the remaining 3 garlic cloves, the celery, the chiles, and the remaining bay leaf and stir well. Stir in the beans and the reserved cooking liquid. Stir in the octopus and the reserved braising liquid. Heat until hot and then taste for seasoning, adding more salt if needed. Stir in the escarole and simmer for a few minutes more.

    Step 9

    Ladle the soup into warmed bowls. Top each serving with a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately.

Reprinted with permission fromA16: Food + Wineby Nate Appleman and Shelley Lindgren, copyright © 2008. Published by Ten Speed Press. Photo credit: Ed Anderson © 2008
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  • As a huge fan of both hearty soups and Nate Appleman (formerly of A16), this recipe was an almost guaranteed hit. Braising the octopus in it's own liquid is the only way to go. Tender and flavorful. NOT the rubbery, flavorless stuff you find at the local "seafood" restaurant. Trust me, if you like briny, rich, delicious soups this is one you won't want to miss. The escarole and chiles are a must. (Hunt down calabrian chiles at your local gourmet import store or fine Italian delicatessen. You'll be adding them to EVERYTHING)

    • tastethis

    • Alameda, CA

    • 10/2/2010

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