突尼斯胡萝卜配香菜和哈里萨酱

1966年，当亚历山大·兹比鲁(Alexander Zbirou)从突尼斯来到法国学习市场营销时，巴黎几乎没有好的犹太餐厅。1976年，他开了一家法国餐厅，名为Au Rendezvous/La Maison du Couscous，在香榭劳斯大街附近的第八区-Élysées。四年后，他把它变成了一家符合犹太教规的突尼斯餐厅，这是该地区唯一一家这样的餐厅。如今，在第八区有超过38家。“我看到犹太人来到这个地区，”他在他的餐厅吃午饭时告诉我。“他们来了，我在等他们。这是突尼斯人和德系犹太人的家常便饭。毕竟，法国有很多跨国婚姻。”1988年，他的母亲让娜·兹比鲁(Jeanne Zbirou)移民到巴黎，现在在厨房指导烹饪。八十多岁的时候，她每天都来这家餐厅和儿子一起工作。 His restaurant, although technically kosher, does not close on Friday night or Saturday. “I feel that we are rendering a service to kosher clientele, to give them a kosher meal for the Sabbath,” he said. Other restaurants, under the supervision of the Parisian rabbinical authority, the Beth Din, are either closed for the Sabbath or open only to customers who pay in advance. Sitting down at the restaurant, we were first served an array of kemia, similar to the ubiquitous mezze at Arab restaurants. We began with flaky brik, filled with potatoes, parsley, and hard-boiled eggs (see page 30). At least a dozen salads followed, served on tiny plates, all brimming with bold colors and flavors. Some of my favorites were raw artichoke slivers with harissa, oil, and onions; turnips with bitter orange; and this delicious carrot salad with harissa and caraway seeds. When I asked how much salt they used to cook the carrots, Jeanne said, “Enough salt to make a raw egg rise in water.” In my own kitchen, I prefer roasting the carrots, because it brings out the sweetness of the vegetable.