Okay, sure, you can literally buy lettuce at any grocery store, any time of year. And that's great.Lettuce is great. Yes, even watery, crisp bargain-buy iceberg. But the truth is: lettucedoeshave a season, and that season is now, and it's about to be over. (But don't worry too much, it'll be popping again this fall.)
According to Jack Algiere, farm director at the acclaimedStone Barnsagricultural center in Westchester County, New York, lettuce is technically a "four-season vegetable, but the hardest times to grow it are in the middle of summer and the middle of winter." Winter brings the cold, wet darkness that promotes fungus growth while the heat of summer forces lettuce to flower, turning the edible leaves unappetizingly bitter. There are a few hardy varieties that fare well in these extreme conditions, such asromaineand certain types oficeberg(which is probably why these two are the most readily available year round).
But it's those shoulder-season varieties that really sing. Algiere, who oversees the farming of about30 different lettuce varietiesthroughout the year, says some of his favorite lettuce varieties are still small when fully mature—this includes heads ofBibband baby romaine (akaLittle Gem). He says these micro varieties "have a lot of depth;" more so than other so-called baby lettuce or "spring mix" thatmost consumersare used to buying in plastic clamshells throughout the year. Those grocery-store mixes come from plants whose leaves are continually cut off prematurely. In contrast, lettuces grown to full maturity in "organic-rich soil" (i.e. soil enriched withcompostor other natural fertilizers) have greater diversity in flavor and texture.
He's also a big fan of early spring varieties such as soft, tenderbutterheadand older types oficeberg, such asReine de Glace(a frilly French heirloom lettuce whose name translates to "Ice Queen," which is basically the definition of badass). In fact, he says to snatch up any iceberg you find at your local farm stand or farmers' market, noting that "there are some extraordinary old varieties that are bright, watery, and crisp with curly, seashell-like shapes," that bear little resemblance to those "basketball-sized market varieties."
As for using them in his own kitchen, Algiere likes tohalve and grillor pan-sear micro head lettuce, cut-side down "just to give it a little warmth." Do that, he says, and you'll develop a great contrast between the crunchy, dense interior and the charred edges. Then follow his cue and spoon a littlesauceordressinginto the crevices of the just-wilted leaves—something like atapenade. He also loves those same micro leaves crisp and fresh as a swap-in for tortillas. "The smaller leaves have ribs that are firm enough" to stand up to a filling ofsliced steakor shredded chicken or pork and a drizzle of asummery sauce. And don't forget aboutfreshly grilled shrimp, either.
Most importantly he says to "be adventurous." Talk to the staff at your favorite farm stand and ask what they're really loving that week. Yoursalad bowlwill thank you for it.
