Thin and crisp, the distinctively large and cylindrical dosa are the famous crispbreads of southern India. Made from a base of ground lentils and rice, they’re delicious and, paired with a simple raita or chutney, the basis of a meal for many people. I ate dosa with amazement throughout India, but I learned how to make them here, with help from Monica Bhide and Suvir Saran, both friends who have written wonderful books about Indian cooking. Note that the difficult part of the dosa-making process—soaking and pureeing—can easily be bypassed if you have an industrial milling machine that can pulverize the lentils and rice into flour straightaway. And a couple of companies do just that, adding salt and fenugreek for flavor, add baking soda to give them a little puff, and sell the resulting mix throughout India and in the States. This mix makes dosa a convenience food you can fry up at the drop of a hat. I think it’s still worthwhile to give this recipe a try, but if the soaking and pureeing are going to keep you from trying dosa, by all means use the mix. Soak the lentil and rice flour in water as directed on the back of the package, and when the batter’s ready, start with step 4. (You can use the mix for the uttapam on the next page as well.)
Ingredients
makes 16 to 20 crêpes
Step 1
Soak the dal and rice in separate bowls in water to cover for 4 to 6 hours or overnight if you prefer.
Step 2
Turn your oven to its lowest temperature. Drain the dal and put it in a blender with a tablespoon or two of water. Puree it to a smooth consistency, adding as little additional water as necessary, but enough to allow the machine to do its work. Transfer the puree to a large mixing bowl.
Step 3
Drain the rice and add half of it to the blender (there’s no need to clean between batches) with about 1/4 cup water. Again, puree (it won’t become as smooth as the dal), adding as little additional water as possible. Repeat with the remaining rice. Add the pureed rice to the dal and stir the two together; the resulting mixture should have the texture of a thick pancake batter. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, turn the oven off, and let the batter ferment overnight in the warmed oven.
Step 4
Preheat a large rectangular nonstick or cast-iron griddle over medium heat for a full minute before greasing it with a film of oil. Season the dosa batter with a large pinch of salt and stir to incorporate. Use a flat-bottomed measuring cup to pour 1/4 cup of batter into the center of the pan, then use the bottom of the measuring cup to spread the dough across the pan into a large oval shape not much more than 1/8 inch thick; don’t worry if the thickness is inconsistent. (It’s the same motion a pizza maker would use—concentric circles with the bottom of the ladle—to spread tomato sauce thinly and evenly across pizza dough.)
Step 5
Tiny bubbles will form across the surface of the dough, and the bottom will crisp and turn a deep golden brown in 3 to 5 minutes. Use a spatula to loosen the edges of the dosa, then roll it onto itself to make a cylinder and remove it from the griddle. Repeat with the remaining batter, greasing the griddle as necessary. Serve hot.
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