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Nutty and Salty Gunpowder Spice

Gunpowder spice blend next to a bowl of crudities.
Photo by Laura Murray

Gunpowder spice, also known as idli podi or milagai podi, is not a spice blend but instead a dry chutney found in South India. It’s most often eaten with dosa or steamed rice cakes called idli. Around our house we just call it “fun dip.” I reach for this stuff daily to dunk apple wedges, spicy radishes, andcrunchy cucumbers,或撒在煮鸡蛋和烤ed potatoes. The toasted lentils and seeds give the gunpowder a nutty and savory flavor, while there’s just enough salt, sugar, and chili to keep you coming back for more. This recipe uses a mix of chana dal and urad dal, which are both hulled and split lentils. Since they are already processed, they readily toast and blitz into a powder. This won’t work with a whole lentil.

There are no measurements for the final seasoning, because how salty, sweet, and spicy you want this gunpowder spice is a personal decision and you need to go on this journey alone. Take your time: Add the salt, sugar, and chili a fat pinch at a time and taste after every addition. You want the chili heat to hit you first, with the sugar rounding out that fire, and enough salt to make everything pop. Serve with raw or cooked vegetables, with fruit, over eggs, on a savory yogurt bowl, in a dosa, or sprinkled on buttered roti.

This recipe was excerpted from ‘Start Here' by Sohla El-Waylly. Buy the full book onAmazon.

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What you’ll need

Ingredients

Makes about 1 cup

¼ cup chana dal (hulled and split chickpeas)
¼ cup urad dal (hulled and split black gram)
¼ cup white sesame seeds
¼ cup unsweetened coconut flakes
1 Tbsp. cumin seeds
1 Tbsp. flaxseeds
20 curry leaves
Coconut sugar or brown sugar
Kosher salt
Kashmiri red chili powder or cayenne pepper
Pinch of MSG (optional)
  1. Step 1

    In a small skillet, toast the chana dal over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it’s golden brown and smells toasty. Transfer to a plate to cool. Toasting each ingredient separately, repeat with the urad dal, sesame seeds, coconut flakes, cumin, flaxseeds, and curry leaves until golden, aromatic, and crisp. Transfer them to the same plate as you go. (Each ingredient will take a different amount of time to toast, so let sight and smell be your guide.)

    Step 2

    Once cool, in a spice grinder, blend all the toasted ingredients in batches until they form a coarse powder, similar in size to bread crumbs or coarse cornmeal. Transfer to a medium bowl.

    Step 3

    Season with sugar, salt, chili powder, and MSG (if using) to taste. It should taste savory, spicy, and slightly sweet. Store gunpowder spice at room temperature for up to 6 weeks.

Cooks' Note

Curry leaves are an herb and are not at all related to curry powder. They are, however, related to citrus and have an incomparable musky and pungent aroma. They are often crisped in oil or toasted before adding to a dish. You can find fresh curry leaves in Indian or specialty grocery stores and keep them in the freezer until you need them.

Excerpted fromStart Here: Instructions for Becoming a Better Cook© 2023 by Sohla El-Waylly. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher. Buy the full book fromAmazonorPenguin Random House.
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