Swordfish Loves the Grill—Here’s How to Do It Right

Grilled swordfish with whole-lemon dressing is the meaty main your dinner party deserves.
A grilled swordfish steak topped with chopped lemon and diced tomatoes and zucchinis.
Photo by Isa Zapata, Food Styling by Micah Marie Morton

If grilled swordfish sounds to you more like a $32 entrée at a New American restaurant than a home-cooked meal, I beg you: Keep reading.Grilled fish—swordfish in particular—is not only completely doable for the home cook, it’s also significantly moreaffordablewhen made on your patio than in a restaurant. Simpler and quicker to prepare than a roast chicken, swordfish is worthy of becoming the centerpiece of your next dinner party or weeknight meal, especially when topped with a garlicky whole-lemon dressing.

Mild and slightly sweet, swordfish fillets can be much richer and more meaty than other fish, which are often thinner and more flaky in texture, not to mention, well, fishy-tasting. The bright lemon dressing adds a layer of acidic saltiness and a touch of bitterness that perfectly complements the rich, mellow fish.

First things first: buying the right swordfish for the job. There literally aren’t enough fish in the sea, so any time one purchases, one ought to do it smartly. That means taking a closer look at the label: fillets bearing aMarine Stewardship Council(MSC) orBest Aquaculture Practices(BAP) certification are more sustainable from the perspective of the environment, labor practices, food safety, and animal welfare and should be sought out when shopping if possible.

Raw swordfish steaks should have a swirled, almost wood-grain-reminiscent pattern, with white- to pink-tinged flesh that’s firm—but not hard—to the touch. Buy the fish skin off (or slice off the skin yourself before cooking), as it tends to be tough. If you’d prefer to buy frozen swordfish, the same guidelines apply, just pay special attention to the flesh color (you want white and pink, not brown), and ensure the fish is frozen solid, as opposed to soft in places, before fully defrosting and cooking.

Photo by Isa Zapata, Food Styling by Micah Marie Morton

Thick swordfish steaks love the grill, so when you hit the fishmonger or seafood counter, look for at least 1"-thick steaks. While four to six ounces is plenty for one serving of fish, often swordfish steaks will clock in at well over a pound. You can grill the slab whole, but to ensure even cooking, simply cut it into personal steaks before seasoning and cooking.

Cooking the fish on a charcoal or gas grill will result in flaky flesh with a hint of smoke and no fishy flavor whatsoever. Start with a scrubbed-clean grill, oil the fish and the grill grates, and there will be zero stickage issues.Prepare the grill for directmedium-high heat (375°-450ºF): swordfish is dense and the thick steaks can not only take the heat, they thrive in it. You’ll get those handsome grill marks in three to five minutes per side without overcooking the center.

No grill? No problem. Heat agrill pan或铸铁skilleton the stove. Depending on your equipment, the cook time can differ by a minute or two, but the technique shouldn’t change much. Cook the swordfish on both sides until it easily releases from the grates and registers an internal temperature of between 130ºF (for medium-rare) and 145ºF (for well-done).

Grilled swordfish practically begs to be topped with a zingy dressing, and this one puts a whole lemon to work. The finely chopped lemon flesh, pith, and peel is mixed with grated raw garlic, fragrant ground coriander, fresh oregano (or another firm herb like thyme or marjoram), and salty capers. If you’ve never used a whole lemon in a recipe before, you’re in for a treat: The floral fruit’s pith and peel have a slight bitterness that is offset by a bit of sugar, leaving you with delightfully tart chunks of lemon.

Any veg-heavy side, like a tender lettuce salad, a crunchy red or green cabbage slaw, or wilted sturdy greens like kale or broccoli rabe will do nicely on the side of the fish; and don’t forget some crusty bread or a pot of cooked couscous or orzo for mopping up any excess dressing. Under the hot summer sun, sip from a sweating glass of wine while you grill—luckily you only need one hand free to flip the fish.