Presented on a platter just moments out of the steamer, a whole steamed fish reflects the cook’s care and attention to obtaining the freshest ingredients possible. Ideally, the fish was plucked live from a tank at the market. Barring that, it met its end shortly before the cook selected it from a bed of ice. This recipe, with its mixture of pork, ginger, onion, mushrooms, and cellophane noodles, is one of the classic Viet ways to steam fish, with the various flavors and textures melding beautifully during cooking. The flavorings are light, so select a mild-tasting white-fleshed fish to complement them. I like striped bass, which is readily available and has delicate flesh, as well as bones that aren’t troublesome; a whole trout weighing about 1 1/2 pounds is another good option. The dish is perfect for entertaining because most of the work may be done hours in advance. Add White Tree Fungus in Clear Broth (page 76), a simply seasoned stir-fried vegetable, and rice for an elegant meal.
Ingredients
serves 4 to 6 with 2 or 3 other dishes
Filling:
Step 1
填满,把油倒到10英寸滑雪llet over medium heat. Add the onion and ginger and sauté for about 1 minute, or until fragrant. Add the pork and mushrooms and use chopsticks or a spatula to break the meat into small pieces so that it will be well distributed later. Cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, or just until the pork is no longer pink, then remove from the heat. Add the fish sauce, noodles, and scallions and stir for about 1 minute, or until the noodles are soft and transparent. Season to taste with pepper and set aside. (The filling may be prepared up to 4 hours in advance. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate; bring to room temperature before using.)
Step 2
Rinse the fish well, removing any membranes and blood that the fishmonger may have overlooked. Generously rub the fish inside and out with salt, then rinse thoroughly under cold running water. Pat the fish dry with paper towels. Lay the fish flat on your work surface and, with a sharp knife, score it crosswise at 3 or 4 places, spacing the slits about 1 inch apart. (See Note for scoring tips.)
Step 3
Set aside a few white scallion strips for garnish and tuck the remainder into the score marks. Select a heatproof plate or nonreactive cake or pie pan 1 inch smaller in diameter than your steamer tray. (Ideally, you will be able to serve the fish from whatever you choose, thus avoiding the need to transfer it to a serving plate.) Lay the fish on the plate or pan, bending it as needed. Stuff half of the filling in the cavity and arrange the rest over the fish. Put the tomato wedges on top and place the plate in the steamer tray.
Step 4
Fill the steamer pan half full with water and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Place the tray in the steamer, cover, and steam the fish for 18 to 22 minutes, or until a knife inserted at the thickest part easily pierces the flesh all the way to the bone.
Step 5
When the fish is done, turn off the heat. Use pot holders or a Chinese steamer retriever (see Note) to remove the plate or pan from the steamer (you may find it easier to put the steamer tray on the counter first). Since the dish is hot, I like to slide it onto a platter and carry it to the table. If you want to transfer the fish to a warmed serving platter, use 2 wide spatulas, and remember to pour the delicious juices onto the platter, too. Garnish with the reserved scallion strips and the cilantro. Serve immediately.
notes
Step 6
For beautiful score marks, hold the knife at a 45-degree angle to the backbone, with the blade pointed toward the head. Make the first cut about 1 inch below the collar and continue from there. Stop 2 inches from the tail or it may break off during cooking. Each cut should be about three-fourths of the way to the bone.
Step 7
A Chinese steamer retriever is an ingenious three-armed gadget that expands to grip onto the lip of a bowl or plate used for steaming, making removal from a hot steamer tray a snap. Constructed of thin aluminum and plastic, it looks wimpy but isn’t. Put your thumb through the ring and move the plastic part like a syringe. The arms open and close to reach around an item and grasp it tight. This inexpensive gadget is sold at Chinese housewares and restaurant-supply shops. Remember, though, it only works on dishes with a lip.
Serving and Enjoying Whole Fish
Step 8
Once you have delivered the fish to the table, take the lead to serve your guests. Use a serving spoon to dig into and lift pieces of flesh gracefully from the bone. Th e score marks are good guides. Make sure garnishes and juices are included with each portion. Once the top side has been eaten, gently peel the central bone away from the flesh. This may be done by holding the neck with chopsticks and peeling it back from head to tail, or vice versa. Toward the end, use the serving spoon to support the removal of the bone in one piece. Set the bone to one side of the platter. Carefully push the short bones edging the fish away from the flesh and continue the feast.
Step 9
It is customary to eat both the skin and the flesh of a whole fish. The fish cheeks are saved for special guests. And the eyes are for connoisseurs.
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