即使像圣休伯特烤肉店been serving the “hot chicken sandwich” since the 1930s, no factual proof exists that it originated in Quebec. Our only proof is that we haven’t seen it outside the province, whereas inside, it’s a weekly staple. It’s basically hot, shredded chicken, served with galvaude (peas and gravy, usually a poutine variation) and two pieces of white bread. In this recipe, you have four meat options: pork, duck, rabbit, or chicken. They’re all hot and they’re all delicious. For pork, use the pulled pork recipe in Scallops with Pulled Pork (page 30). For the other meats, there are three steps: (1) cure it, (2) smoke it, and (3) confit it. If you don’t have a smoker can, you will need to dig up an empty 1-quart (1-liter) tin can for step 2. If you live in the States, D’Artagnan (www.dartagnan.com) will deliver the duck fat you need in step 4 to your door. If not, use bacon fat. The gravy is the perfect clone of the local poulet barbecue sauce. It’s not a hot sauce, but it’s also not that thickish gravy that tastes like spinach and baking soda. It’s zingier, a cross between BBQ sauce and gravy. It is classic on these sandwiches, but it’s also good, minus the bread, on duck, pork, poutine, or yes, chicken.
Ingredients
Makes 4 hefty sandwiches
SMOKED MEATS
DELICIOUS GRAVY
Step 1
To cure the meat, in a small bowl, mix together the salt, sugar, garlic, and peppercorns. Rub the mixture into the legs thoroughly. Place the cured legs in 1 or more lock-top plastic bags and refrigerate for 4 hours. When the time is up, remove them from the bag(s), rinse off the cure, and pat dry with paper towels.
Step 2
To smoke the meat, start the BBQ on low-medium setting. To prepare the smoker can (or a 1-quart/1-liter tin can), fill it to the top with the wood chips. Cover the entire can with aluminum foil and poke 3 or 4 holes in the top. By now the BBQ should be hot and smoking. Place the can on the fire on the opposite side of where you will put the meat.
Step 3
In a large enough bowl, coat the legs with the oil. Put the legs on the BBQ, close the lid, and smoke for 45 minutes. There should be a good amount of smoke billowing out near the end. Now remember, you’re not cooking the meat here. You are smoking it for flavor.
Step 4
To confit the meat, preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Pour the duck fat into a large (big enough for 6 legs) baking dish and let it melt. When the fat is melted and liquid, nestle the 6 smoked legs in it, side by side. If you’re using duck or rabbit legs, cook in the oven for 3 1/2 hours; for chicken, cook for 2 1/2 hours. You know you’re on the right track when after 45 minutes the bubbles in the fat start rising to the top like a glass of 7UP long after it’s been poured.
Step 5
Meanwhile, make the gravy. In a saucepan, sweat the onion and garlic in the drippings over medium heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until slightly colored. Add the flour and stir well with a wooden spoon. Add the cayenne, mustard, celery salt, allspice, and pepper and stir for another minute or two, then add the HP sauce. Stir again for a minute and then add the tomato juice and the stock. Whisk about 10 turns, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 20 minutes. Strain the gravy; you should have about 2 cups (500 ml). Season with salt. Just before serving, reheat until piping hot.
Step 6
When the time is up on the confit, remove the pan from the oven and let cool for 30 minutes. Take the legs out of the fat. Now you have confit legs. If you want to stop here and not make the sandwich, we don’t blame you. You can enjoy the legs on their own. (Confit legs are the best leftovers: an absolute treat and they taste better in the days after.) If you are going ahead with the sandwiches, while the legs are still warm, pull the meat off the bones and then pull the meat apart using either your fingers or 2 forks.
Step 7
Get out 4 plates, and put 1 bread slice on each plate. Divide the meat evenly among the bread slices. Pour half of the hot gravy over the meat and bread. Top the sandwiches with the remaining bread slices. Add the peas (thawed, if using frozen) to the remaining gravy and put on the heat for 2 to 3 minutes, enough to warm a little. Pour the gravy and peas over the top of the sandwiches. Serve with the fries.
