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Oval Masa Turnovers

Throughout Mexico City and the surrounding states, people in all walks of life—bankers in suits and ties, college kids in T-shirts and jeans, women cradling babies—cluster around thetlacoyovendor who makes their favorite version of this miniature football-shaped masa snack. Most are made with ordinary white or yellow corn, but a few vendors still servetlacoyosmade from the scarce blue-black corn.

One day on the way from Mexico City to the popular getaway of Tepoztlán, Ricardo took me on a back road that was virtually enveloped on both sides by fields of nopal cactus. In this area, known as Milpa Alta, thetlacoyosare typically topped with a green salsa and nopales, and not surprisingly, we stopped for a quick, tasty snack. For a more colorful variation, add a contrasting tomato red salsa on half of eachtlacoyo.

Ingredients

Makes 12 tlacoyos; serves 6

为Tlacoyos

1 pound freshly made masa for corn tortillas, or 1 3/4 cups masa harina for tortillas reconstituted with 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons quite warm water
1/4 cup freshly rendered pork lard
1 teaspoon sea salt
About 3/4 cupFrijoles Refritos

For Frying the Tlacoyos

1/2 cup freshly rendered pork lard or canola or safflower oil

For the Topping

1/2 cup finely chopped white onion
1 cup crumbled queso fresco or queso panela
About 2 cups cooked, diced nopales, from about 1 pound paddles (optional)
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro, thick stem ends removed
10 red radishes, julienned (optional)
  1. FOR THE TLACOYOS:

    Step 1

    Put the fresh masa or the reconstituted masa harina in a large bowl, add the lard and salt, and mix with your hands until a smooth dough forms. A little warm water may have to be added to the masa mixture to achieve the correct consistency. Divide the dough into 12 equal portions and shape each portion into a 1 1/2-inch ball. Flatten each ball lightly with your hands to form a thick tortilla about 3 inches in diameter and 1/8 inch thick, or use a tortilla press, pressing down rather lightly so the masa is 1/8 inch thick.

    Step 2

    Press a hollow in the center of a tortilla large enough for 1 tablespoon of beans. Add the beans to the hollow and close the tortilla, forming it into a ball. Flatten the ball between your hands to form a football-shaped turnover about 5 1/2 inches long, 2 3/4 inches across at its widest part, and 1/2 inch thick. Repeat with the remaining masa balls.

    Step 3

    Heat the oven to 200°F. Place a large, heavy skillet or a griddle over low heat. Add as many tlacoyos as will fit without crowding and cook, turning often, until the masa is cooked through and the tlacoyos are slightly charred on both sides, about 10 minutes. Lightly cover and set aside while you cook the remaining tlacoyos. (This step may be done up to a day ahead. Let cool, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate.)

  2. FOR FRYING:

    Step 4

    Heat the lard over medium heat just until sizzling hot. Working in batches to prevent crowding, add thetlacoyosand fry on one side only, spooning the hot oil over the top until golden, 30 to 60 seconds. Using a slotted spatula, lift thetlacoyos, allowing any excess fat to drip off, and drain on absorbent paper. Keep warm on a heatproof platter in the oven until all are fried.

    Step 5

    Drench eachtlacoyowith a spoonful of theSalsa Verde Cruda. If using both salsas, spoon them on opposite ends. Sprinkle eachtlacoyowith a little onion, somequeso fresco, about 2 tablespoons of the cooked nopales (if using), and some cilantro and radishes (if using) and serve hot.Tlacoyosmust have hungry people waiting to eat them on the spot.

FromLa Cocina Mexicana: Many Cultures, One Cuisineby Marilyn Tausend with Ricardo Muñoz Zurita, © 2012 University of California Press
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  • These made a good companion for the Asanazi Buttnernut Squash Soup with Chorizo and Pepitas, but failed to blow me away. This may be more of a problem on my end, as I found the tortillas very crumbly and difficult to handle no matter how much oil (I used coconut) and water I added. They could have used a hit of cayenne. Don't skip the garnish on this one, definitely made the meal! I'll be visiting this one again once I find the secret to a more pliable corn tortilla.

    • citymouse09

    • Harrisburg, PA

    • 10/28/2013

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