In this indulgent salad, wild mushrooms are sautéed until tender and crisp, then tossed in a warm sherry vinaigrette with bitter greens and herbs. There are so many different herbs in this salad that each forkful tastes different, depending on which herb you bite into. Chervil contributes a mild anise nuance, while chives add a peppery, oniony note. Tarragon has a pungent licorice bite, and parsley a bright grassiness. Ribbons of pecorino and a sprinkling of toasted hazelnuts are the final layer of luxury in this delicious warm salad. All Italian sheep’s milk cheeses are called pecorino. They are usually named after their place of origin, as in Pecorino Romano or Pecorino Toscano. However, my favorite pecorino, Pecorino di Grotta, for this salad is from the Emilia-Romagna region. The story goes that the local housewives would hide a wheel or two of this aged cheese in the basement (grotta), storing it for later, when they would sneak out of the house and sell it for pocket money. Let’s hope that times have changed for the ladies in Emilia-Romagna!
Ingredients
Step 1
Preheat the oven to 375°F.
Step 2
Toast the hazelnuts on a baking sheet 8 to 10 minutes, tossing them once or twice, until they smell nutty and are a light golden brown. Let them cool, then chop the hazelnuts coarsely.
Step 3
Place the diced shallots, sherry vinegar, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl, and let sit for 5 minutes. Whisk in 5 tablespoons olive oil and set aside.
Step 4
If the mushrooms are large, tear them into large (1 1/2- to 2-inch) pieces. (They’ll shrink once they’re cooked, so don’t make them too small.)
Step 5
Heat a large sauté pan over high heat for 2 minutes. Add 2 tablespoons olive oil and heat another minute. Swirl in 1 tablespoon butter, and when it foams, scatter half the mushrooms in the pan. Season with 1 teaspoon thyme, 3/4 teaspoon salt, and a healthy pinch of pepper. Sauté the mushrooms about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until they’re tender and a little crispy. (The cooking time will depend on the particular mushrooms you use.) Transfer the cooked mushrooms to a plate, and repeat with the second batch.
Step 6
Meanwhile, place the salad and herbs in a large salad bowl.
Step 7
When the second batch of mushrooms is done, add the first batch back to the pan. Cook for another minute or two to heat thoroughly, then toss in the sliced shallots. Spoon the hot mushrooms over the salad. Return the pan to the stove and add three-quarters of the vinaigrette, swirling the pan to heat it. When the dressing is very warm, pour it over the salad. Season with 1/4 teaspoon salt and freshly ground black pepper. Toss carefully to dress the salad and mushrooms, and taste for seasoning. You may need a little more salt, pepper, vinaigrette, or straight sherry vinegar.
Step 8
Arrange half the salad on a large platter. Use a vegetable peeler to shave some pecorino over the salad, and sprinkle half the hazelnuts over that. Place the remaining salad on top, and finish with shavings of cheese and the rest of the nuts.
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